Book excerpt: A brief history of Eastern Kentucky

December 16, 2012 

Excerpted from Night Comes to the Cumberlands: A Biography of a Depressed Area by Harry M. Caudill. Published in 1963 by Little, Brown & Co. Republished in 2001 by the Jesse Stuart ­Foundation. Used with permission of the Jesse Stuart Foundation.

Editor’s note: In the ­introduction to his book, Caudill gives a brief history of Eastern Kentucky.

The Cumberland Plateau ­region of Kentucky is a ­serrated upland in the eastern and southeastern part of the state. Its jagged hills and narrow winding valleys cover some ten ­thousand square miles. It embraces nineteen counties and portions of a dozen ­others. These units of government were ­created by the caprice of governors and ­legislators and, with one ­exception, were named for the state’s heroes of statecraft and battlefield: Bell, Breathitt, Clay, Floyd, Harlan, Knott, Knox, Laurel, Lee, Leslie, Letcher, ­McCreary, Magoffin, Martin, Owsley, Perry, Pike, Whitley and Wolfe. Few of the heroes deserved so high an honor, and few of the counties were ­worthy of creation. Only Pike County has proved to be sufficiently large and wealthy to discharge even fairly well the responsibilities inherent in local government.

The plateau’s half-million inhabitants are among the earth’s most interesting folk. Their ­European ancestry and American adventures constitute a remarkable page in the history of mankind. The American public is prone to think of them as quaint ­hillbillies, a concept sociologists have neglected to explain or ­explore. In truth, the Kentucky mountaineer is drawn from some of the oldest white stock to be found north of Florida. His ­forebears had dwelt in or on the edge of the Southern ­Appalachians for ­generations before the Declaration of ­Independence was penned. In their long residence on this ­continent they left behind a unique, ­checkered and violent history. Their past created the modern mountaineers and the communities in which they live, and resulted in a land of ­economic, social and political blight without parallel in the ­nation. The purpose of this work is to trace the social, economic and political forces which produced the vast “depressed area” of eastern Kentucky.

Much of the region’s story is the story of coal. Geologists tell us that two hundred million years ago it was a plain that had risen from the floor of a long-dry inland sea. Then the tortured crust of the earth cracked and “faulted,” ­rearing the Pine Mountain. This long, steep, ragged ridge now stretches from the Breaks of the Big Sandy River on the Virginia line some hundred and thirty miles southwesterly into ­northern Tennessee. It parallels the ­Cumberland (or Big Black) ­Mountain, the southern ­boundary of the plateau. Water flowing away from its base over a great fan-shaped territory carved the ­channels of three of the state’s major streams and chiseled thousands of narrow valleys — the creeks and hollows of today.

After the shallow sea receded, it left a vast bog where vegetation flourished, died, piled up in deep beds, turned to peat and finally, aeons later, to coal. When the streams carved out the mountains and ridges of today they sliced through magnificent seams of coal, a mineral the steel age would esteem more highly than rubies.

Coal has always cursed the land in which it lies. When men begin to wrest it from the earth it leaves a legacy of foul streams, hideous slag heaps and polluted air. It peoples this transformed land with blind and crippled men and with widows and orphans. It is an extractive industry which takes all away and restores nothing. It mars but never beautifies. It ­corrupts but never purifies.

But the tragedy of the ­Kentucky mountains ­transcends the tragedy of coal. It is ­compounded of Indian wars, civil war and intestine feuds, of layered hatreds and of violent death. To its sad blend, history has added the curse of coal as a crown of sorrow.

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