Tom Eblen: Alfalfa, one of Lexington's oldest restaurants, celebrates 40th year

Herald-Leader columnistApril 23, 2013 

The way restaurants come and go, this one would seem like a long shot. A group of idealistic 20-somethings with little money and no experience wanted to serve wholesome food at reasonable prices.

Short of chairs on opening day in April 1973, they offered free meals to customers who donated them.

"We had an unusual business plan at first: six partners and two menu items," said Art Howard, one of the original partners. "I wouldn't recommend that now."

Alfalfa Restaurant not only survived, it became a local institution that is now one of Lexington's oldest restaurants. Current and former customers and employees are invited to a 40th anniversary party, 4 to 10 p.m. April 28 at the current location, 141 East Main Street.

"We've basically tried to have fun with the place," said Jake Gibbs, an off-and-on minority owner who started washing dishes as a graduate student in 1979 and now tries to manage Alfalfa as well as a reluctant capitalist can.

"We don't do a huge business," Gibbs said. "We roughly break even every year."

Making money was never the main goal. Alfalfa, after all, was started by what the restaurant's website calls "hippie-type" young people with what was then a novel interest in healthy, locally produced food.

"We were pretty much ahead of our time," said Howard, who sold his interest in Alfalfa a few years later, became a chef and, since 1995, has owned The Ketch Seafood Grill on Regency Road.

"They bought real vegetables from real local farmers before it was cool," said Rona Roberts, a regular Alfalfa customer since 1973 who now writes the food blog Savoring Kentucky. "They have a lot of distinctive food; they've never given up on making everything themselves."

When Alfalfa opened at 557 South Limestone, near the University of Kentucky, it was financed with $2,000 that Howard inherited from a grandmother and $100 or $200 kicked in by each of the other five partners, he said.

The restaurant's name was the result of a desperate brainstorming session as opening day neared. Howard can't remember who came up with "Alfalfa," but he said it might have been less a reference to the forage legume than to a character from the 1930s Our Gang comedies, then in TV reruns.

Howard had been interested in starting a bakery, so he became the baker, setting a standard for fresh-baked, whole-grain bread that baker Tom Martin has kept going for the past 35 years.

Partner Leslie Bower, who had trained at Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in France, was the first head cook. (She was murdered in 1979 when she stopped in Georgia to ask directions.)

The restaurant's most notorious employee was a cook in 1974 known as Lena Paley. Soon after she abruptly left town, Alfalfa employees recognized her on an FBI "wanted" poster as Susan Saxe, an accomplice in a 1970 Boston bank robbery in which a police officer was killed. Captured in 1975, Saxe pleaded guilty to manslaughter and was paroled in 1982.

Alfalfa left its original home a decade ago and moved into the Downtown Arts Center on Main Street. Gibbs said the restaurant is negotiating for another 10-year lease.

All of the original partners left Alfalfa long ago, and there have been several owners over the years who started as employees of the restaurant. They included Marina Ubaldi, Jeff Gitlin and Gibbs, who teaches history at Bluegrass Community and Technical College.

Jim Happ, the main owner since 2004, also is CEO of Labcon North America, a California-based manufacturer of sustainable laboratory materials. He and his wife, Betsey, met while working at Alfalfa. They named their daughter for Helen Alexander, who has been a cook there for 25 years.

Like previous owners, Happ and Gibbs have tried to maintain the quality and variety of Alfalfa's health-conscious food, as well as the family atmosphere for both customers and employees.

"Alfalfa's is such a nice family," said Lexington artist John Lackey. He and his wife, Jenny, both worked at the restaurant, as did their son, Quinn, 21. Their younger son, Dylan, 17, works there now.

"It's a labor of love," Lackey said of Alfalfa. "It's just such a great, interesting collection of people; the right balance of service and insanity."

Tom Eblen: (859) 231-1415. Email: teblen@herald-leader.com. Twitter: @tomeblen. Blog: Tomeblen.bloginky.com.

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