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Ramsey's: Old friend on the corner

Ramsey's offers goo, unpretentious food in a comfortable setting; May it always be there for us

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

Ramsey's downtown began its life as a funky watering hole/diner that served familiar comfort food. Since its inception in 1989, the restaurant spawned four more Lexington locations (one has closed), gained praise on the Internet, and watched development rise around it. Almost two decades later, the restaurant has become a local institution.

One factor in Ramsey's success is surely its expression of the best of laid-back Lexington: a little tumbledown, creaky wood chairs, unfinished or hand painted furniture, casual service, and many photographs of old Lexington.

Another is the variety of seating options: a table by picture windows, another cozy dining room one step up, or a patio for warmer days and nights.

Combine these with an inexpensive menu of unpretentious food where prices are low and portions are large, where macaroni and cheese resides unapologetically under the heading of "veggies," and the result is an experience that is greater than the sum of its parts.

Like most people who have been in Lexington a while, I have eaten at Ramsey's many times -- in large groups for celebrations, in medium-size groups for happy hour, and as half of a party of two. I am a stalwart fan of the meat loaf and fried chicken, and simply adore the predictably delicious and frequently seasonal side dishes, aka "veggies," like fresh creamed corn or bright emerald spinach.

Somehow, though, most of my past visits have been for a gigantic brunch or after sunset, so it seemed fitting, in the name of something like a fresh viewpoint, to try Ramsey's for lunch.

At that time of day, the average price is $9 to $10 for a king-size entree that includes two vegetables. Given that you can get two meals out of that, the cost breaks down to about $5 a serving. Enormous sandwiches cost about $8 and come with one vegetable.

We ordered two sandwiches.

One was the open-face pot roast sandwich ($7.95), thick strands of brisket in gravy -- a cross between pulled meat and a stew -- served on white toast with creamy (as opposed to chunky) mashed potatoes.

Ramsey's is nothing if not accommodating, so it allowed me to turn the seasonal chicken salad into a sandwich ($7.55). Large chunks of chicken breast, tossed in mayonnaise and served with tomato, avocado and hard-boiled egg slices, made for an abundant protein rush. Next time I order this seasonal special, though, I hope the chicken will be a little more tender and the avocado a bit riper.

As usual, both side dishes were terrific. The kale was earthy and tender without being overcooked, and the stewed tomatoes were sweet and just tart enough to avoid being cloying. For the record, a plate of four veggies costs $6.60.

Stepping out the door and observing the rush of building around this most beloved of dining spots, I thought to myself how good it is that some things don't change.

Lunch for two, with two beers, was about $25.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Ramsey's

Address: 496 E. High St.

Phone: (859) 259-2708.

Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Wed.; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Thu., Fri.; 10 a.m.-1 a.m. Sat.; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun.

Other: Credit cards accepted. Parking nearby. Full bar. Some local ingredients used. Vegetarian options.

Other locations: Other Ramsey's are at 4053 Tates Creek Centre Dr., 4391 Old Harrodsburg Rd., 3090 Helmsdale Place.