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Natasha's Bistro: Go for the goulash

Hummus Stands Out, Too, During An Entertaining Meal

Contributing Restaurant Critic

Recently my wife and I had our foodie friends from Washington, D.C., visiting, and we decided to take them to Natasha's Bistro. When I called to make a reservation, the host asked whether we would be staying for the Gypsy dancers. Needless to say, my curiosity got the best of me, and after further inquiry I knew that I wanted to be at Natasha's on this night. Little did I know that we would be treating our friends to a dining experience unlike anything else I have experienced in the Bluegrass.

My senses were on high alert. Taking in the scene, I observed an eclectic decor with a mixture of Mediterranean and Eastern European touches. The place was almost half full yet hopping with anticipation over the night's entertainment. We were seated at a small table in the middle of the restaurant and started with the Mediterranean appetizer sampler, and the baked brie and fruit chutney. The sampler came with hummus, baba ghanouj, tabouli and a mushroom salad. Of the four, the hummus was the star. Garlicky and smooth, it was perhaps the best hummus I have ever tasted. The other three items paled in comparison. The brie was delicious but small, amounting only to about one taste per person for our party of four.

With our palates awakened, it was time for the real show to begin: our entrees. After asking our server's advice, we decided on the Hungarian goulash, pork roulette, pecan-crusted trout and pasta basilica. Each entree comes with a choice of soup or salad. On this night we all decided on the Greek salad because Natasha's was out of soup. As our salads arrived, so did the Gypsy dancers, gyrating through the aisles and onto the stage. I momentarily lost my focus on the task at hand and told myself to concentrate on the food.

The trout, crusted with pecans and served over a bed of couscous with vegetables, was cooked perfectly but suffered from a lack of seasoning. A pinch of salt would do wonders. The pasta basilica -- penne with onions, olives, pine nuts and feta cheese, all tossed in a spinach pesto -- tasted as if it was fresh from the farmers market. The only issue was the chicken that my wife had added; it was dry from overcooking -- subtract that, the pasta was perfect.

The final two entrees were the favorites of the evening. The pork roulette was stuffed with brie, prunes, garlic and fresh herbs, then topped with mozzarella cheese; it came with a side of potatoes au gratin.

As delicious as this was, I have saved the best for last: the goulash. Nothing fancy, simply braised beef with tomatoes, peppers and a heavy hand of paprika over mashed potatoes, this dish would have stolen the show had it not been for the Gypsy dancers.

Because the entertainment was not yet over, we stuck around for Turkish coffee and dessert -- baklava, creme brulee and flourless chocolate cake. Each was delicious and gave us a little extra time to reflect on a fantastic evening of good food, good friends and even better Gypsy dancing.

Dinner for four with three drinks, tax and a well-spent $5 cover per person towards entertainment, was $167 without the tip.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Natasha's Bistro

Address: 112 Esplanade.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.

Phone: (859) 259-2754.

Online: www.beetnik.com.

Other: All major credit cards accepted. Handicapped accessible. Vegetarian options available. Live entertainment, mostly Friday and Saturday; there is a schedule on the Web site.