Los Alazanes: The food is exceptional; the service is not

The food at elegant Los Alazanes is exceptional, but the service is not

By Howard M. Snyder hsnyder@herald-leader.com

When someone asks me about any Mexican restaurant I've reviewed, I always tell them whether the salsa and guacamole are good. I put a lot of stock in the chips and salsa everyone is given when they visit Mexican restaurants. And I always order a side of guacamole to go with it. That was the scenario I followed at Los Alazanes Mexican Restaurant on South Broadway.

If you haven't noticed this new restaurant, you're not alone. I didn't even see it when I pulled into Tattersalls Square, a new development near the corner of Red Mile Road and South Broadway. It's kind of tucked in between a gas station and The Coach House. There is a Waffle House tucked in there, too.

Once my dining companion and I entered Los Alazanes — named for chestnut- or sorrel-colored horses that were brought to the New World by the Spanish conquistadors — we appreciated its spacious, well-appointed dining area. There were leather-covered booths around the walls, tables and leather (or leather-looking) chairs in the middle. Someone had put some money into this restaurant.

The chips and salsa, as at most Mexican places, were automatically served, and as usual, I ordered a side of guacamole ($2.50). The chips were fresh and warm, not stale as at some other restaurants, and the salsa was good. Los Alazanes' salsa is the thinner variety but bursting with tomato, lime juice and cilantro.

We had to remind our server that we had ordered guacamole. But once it was served, we were delighted. This guacamole had been made in a food processor. It was garlicky and had the smoothness of mayonnaise. On a second visit, though, the guacamole was completely different: chunkier and fruity. It reminded me of Cielito Lindo's guacamole, which I've always considered the best in the city.

First impression: very good.

Mexican restaurants in today's world have become fairly standardized. When I opened the menu at Los Alazanes, I'd seen it all before. It is extensive, more so than most, but the offerings are basically the same as any other Mexican restaurant. I found one of my favorites: carnitas ($9.25). Most of the carnitas I've tried were been braised, but Los Alazanes' were fried, according to the menu. The pork was a bit drier and saltier, but the dish was still wonderful — and even better with a spoonful of salsa. It was served with refried beans and rice and also came with a guacamole salad, but our server gave it to my companion, who gladly scarfed it down before I realized that it was supposed to be mine.

The other entree we sampled was the ­ranchero chef's special ($11.75), a sirloin steak covered with onions, green peppers and tomatoes, which was good, and a chicken enchilada, which my companion liked better than the steak.

Dessert was another mix-up. We ordered the flan ($2.60) and the tres leches cake ($4.50). We got the flan but not the cake; fried ice cream was served instead. We told our server about the error, but it didn't seem to faze her. The flan, or crème caramel, was good and had not been made with a mix, but it lacked the vanilla punch that most Mexican flans have. The fried ice cream ($3.35) was unusually good vanilla ice cream in a fried tortilla shell, drizzled with strawberry syrup.

Dinner for two, including two Mexican beers ($3.30 each) and a soft drink ($1.75) and tax, but not tip, was $36.79.

I visited Los Alazanes alone later, and service was flawless. The chunky, fruity ­guacamole I mentioned earlier was exceptional, and I tried the tacos de carne asada ($8.50). Bits of fried steak, similar to what is served in fajitas, were assembled in warm soft tortillas and served with pico de gallo and a good hot salsa. No surprises here. It was exceptional. I also sampled the guacamole salad ($4.75) that I had lost on the previous visit. An iceberg lettuce chiffonade was topped with yummy guacamole, shredded Mexican cheese and a slice of tomato. It was pretty standard as salads go, but the guacamole, again, was wonderful and set it apart.

I tried to get the tres leches cake, but the server said they were out.

If it weren't for the lax service on the first visit, Los Alazanes would have gotten another star.

That dinner, including two beers and tax but not tip, was $23.70.