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In the Drink: Atomic Cafe brings a tropical feel to downtown

By Wendy Miller Contributing Columnist

I have always associated island-themed patios with drinks that are unctuous, cloying and sludgy. Paradoxically, the idea of them seemed even worse when the weather got hot, their thick mouthfeels almost mimicking the ­humidity. Rather than wanting to linger, I would only want a shower.

Atomic Café, however, has shattered that preconception. Whether you order the signature cocktail, a gaudy rum runner ($5), or the slushier frozen drink, a champagne Caribe ($5.50), every sip is guaranteed to be icy and light, tropically sweet and refreshing.

Because the patio extends over a large area, air generally circulates. There is always breathing room, whether at the tables along the western wall strung with amber lights or all the way southwest, where bands thumping out reggae can be heard two blocks away. And when a breeze comes through, you can't beat the ultimate ­aromatherapy of chicken ­smoking on the grill.

Atomic opened in 1992, just as Miami's ­reputation as Fun City was really taking off. That trend's novelty has long since waned, or at least become ”established.“ But Atomic has endured and, although Lexington has fewer fair-weather days than Florida, its undersea décor, its menu that crosses fruits and spices with fish and sweet potatoes, and all the Gulf Coast paraphernalia suggest the same message: Living well is the best revenge, and that revenge is best taken outdoors.

Co-owner Bill Riddle calls this vibe the ­restaurant's ”identity.“

”The mix of mahogany and brick complimented by well-established trees in the middle of the city — I don't think that our atmosphere or feel is duplicated anywhere in the city,“ he says.

Demographically, however, Atomic has several faces. There's the Friday night crowd — ”younger college kids,“ as co-owner Dale Holland describes them — and the Saturday night group — ”who are a few years older, the thirty-somethings.“ On my own, I also discovered the patio's mid-week personality, perhaps more subdued on ”school nights,“ but overall mellow and relaxed, happily minus the restraint that comes with more formal dining. My favorite part of a bar experience, though, is often the bartender, and that was true here. Dominick Starosky, who has been at Atomic Café for about three years, epitomizes his trade, not just for his mixological skills but also for his uncanny ability to know your needs before you do, to remember your orders like a mnemonist and to provide a beverage guaranteed to lift your mood.