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Two Ky. wineries to host festivals this weekend

Kentucky wine industry hits a new zenith: two festivals in three days

By Cheryl Truman ctruman@herald-leader.com

Yes, you have your Ichthus this weekend, your Great American Brass Band Festival, Shakespeare at Equus Run, the Festival of the Bluegrass.

Then there's a weekend in the slow lane, where a glass of wine and the countryside rise up to meet you. It's the weekend of not one, but two wine festivals: amazing times in Kentucky, which usually is better known for its louder pleasures.

The grapes are tiny now on the vines at Lexington's Talon Winery and Vineyards; they're the size of big pollen grains, green-tinged. But come back in July and August, says Talon spokeswoman Lori Baumgardner, and the fruit will be so lush that you can't see the supporting posts.

The 300-acre farm on which Talon sits — and will hold a two-day festival this weekend — used to grow tobacco. Now it grows grapes (six varieties on 5 acres), makes wine and hosts ­samplings, tours and events such as weddings.

Baumgardner's mother, attorney Harriet Allen, and her step­father, Charles Tackett, started the vineyard and winery on the rolling Bluegrass. Says Baumgardner: ”My mom said it was always her dream to have a vineyard, and she doesn't do anything small.“

The fruit eventually will be harvested by hand, sorted and then delivered to the ”crush pad.“ Then it's on to processing. Eventually the grapes might wind up in a Sweet Evening Breeze, the winery's best seller, or a Coyote Red. (The winery doesn't grow all of its needed grapes on its land but says it tries to buy most of what it needs from Kentucky growers.)

The winery produces 7,000 to 8,000 gallons of wine a year, or about 36,000 to 42,000 bottles. It's a grapey, yeasty ­environment. Under state law, the winery can produce as much as 50,000 gallons a year. Talon has a lot of room to grow.

Does winemaker Kerry Jolliffe have a favorite wine? He does: cabernet sauvignon, ”the funnest to say and the funnest to drink,“ he says.

Sweeter wines, he says, are more popular but harder to work with ­— the sugar-yeast combination is trickier because sugars are the food source for the yeast.

The wine is stored in oak barrels produced by a company in East Bernstadt, leading Jolliffe to quip: ”It's Kentucky fruit in Kentucky oak.“

Says Baumgardner of the vineyard and winery, which also hosts a summer concert series: ”You're in Fayette County. You're not that far away — but when you're out here, you feel away from everything.“

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