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á la lucie:Changes for better

Menu Tweaks Give Downtown Veteran a Much-Needed Boost

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

This is, figuratively speaking, a tale of two restaurants. Although they look alike -- dark walls with artwork, a dangling disco ball and a twinkling bar -- one denied the enjoyment implied by the ambience and prices; and the other, with updated menus, seemed to be on the road to makeover.

On my first recent visit to the downtown landmark a la lucie, the hot creamy dip of chopped artichoke hearts and cheese ($6.75), teasingly called a "soufflé," was decadent, rich, and a nice starter that deserved something toastier and tastier than water crackers to mop up every last drop.

The second time around I ordered curried jumbo shrimp with cucumber vinaigrette ($15) -- think West Indies "jerked" shellfish meets Asian-style salad. The concept and execution were new and refreshing.

On Visit No. 1, salads were a la carte; on Visit No. 2, a few weeks later, they came with dinner.

The spinach salad ($6.95), in a large won ton shell, was scattered with slivered almonds and green onions. Its zesty rebirth includes fresh orange and grapefruit. "Caesar" salad at Lucie's seems code for "romaine" ($6.95); the one I tried had anemic croutons and almost no salt. Perhaps the fried onions that have replaced the croutons will enliven it.

While the salads accompanying the main dishes are essentially lettuce with tomato slices, the buttermilk-feta dressing, light, slightly tart and well-balanced, brings all the elements together. And this time, by contrast, plates and greens were chilled.

Now to entrees, pre-makeover:

Two grilled pork chops with pear-bourbon sauce ($19) were not the highlight of this entree, nor were the chunks of turnip, carrot, broccoli or yellow squash. The most delicious thing on the plate was the potato gratin, with a sweet base layer that resembled French onion soup (on the menu for $5.25).

The oversize Mediterranean stuffed eggplant ($15) looked like a still life: a shiny black cornucopia spilling out carrots, red bell peppers and tomatoes, broccoli, and burnished mushrooms (but no garbanzo beans as promised). The rice tasted like converted rice, not a bad thing, but without salt, butter or any other seasoning or flavor, it was terribly bland -- and there was not enough feta on top to compensate.

And for the Visit No. 2 versions:

Plump pan-fried crab cakes ($23.95) were deliciously crisp on the outside, moist and steaming hot inside. Gone was the green chili aioli in favor of a more classic caper tartare sauce; the sweet potato fries, a bit limp but a great match, remained.

The braised lamb shank ($20.95) is not new, but the side has been modified from creamy polenta to a more textured polenta cake. The lamb was fork tender, absolutely lean and falling off the bone. Its sauce, however, tasted more of meat broth than of the red wine described on the menu.

All vegetable medleys on both visits await revitalization: plain, steamed and unseasoned, they are colorful, healthy and dull.

Finally, "Miss Lucie's Lexington bread pudding" ($6) was the comfort food it should be, warm and tender with a sweet hard sauce laced with bourbon.

Given the fundamental strengths of á la lucie, the great music and fabulous bar, I am hopeful that the pizazz is being returned. Now how about a fresh coat of paint, some furniture repairs and further consideration of all the details of the 2007 dining experience?

Or, better yet, how about anticipating, as all Central Kentucky restaurants should, what that experience must be in 2010, when a whole lot of company will be coming?

A four-course dinner for two, with wine and tax but not tip, was about $86; the second meal, without wine or dessert but with salads included, cost about $63.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

á la lucie

Address: 159 N. Limestone.

Phone: (859) 252-5277.

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Dinner: 4-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 4-11 p.m. Sat.

Other: Full bar. Street parking. Credit cards accepted. Limited vegetarian options.