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Hunan: Its name is region

What Hunan Lacks in Authenticity, It Makes Up for in Other Ways

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

Hunan is a clean, cozy place with spanking bright walls, good distance between booths and tables, and pretty lanterns. It invites lingering, in spite of the sometimes manic speed of service, so dedicated that conversations aren't spared interruption.

But I've noticed on both recent visits that the restaurant does a brisk take-out business as well, and I can see why: Everyone is tremendously nice, nothing is overly salty, the portions are enormous and the prices reasonable. The large menu includes popular vegetarian items, such as kwachi, a soy-based product made to taste like chicken, as well as non-Chinese pad Thai.

I have just one question: Why is it called Hunan?

This south-central region of China is famous for spicy food. Most dishes use a judicious dose of dried red chilies, with garlic, ginger and some member of the onion family not far behind. The result is a highly seasoned cuisine that balances fire and flavor.

Lexington's Hunan seems to cater to the conservative American palate, and in this often sacrifices its own identity. While the produce and rice are fresh and nothing is greasy, look elsewhere for authentic ethnic dining. Here, the chilies appear to be primarily garnish or sparingly added in sauce at the last minute, and I did not notice a sliver of garlic or fresh ginger in any of the "spicy" dishes I've tried.

That said, my favorite item has been the refreshing hot and sour cabbage ($3.25). Homemade, this is the Chinese riff on coleslaw, with just the right amount of crunch in the skinny strands of cabbage and carrots, as well as a nice harmony of hot, tangy and sweet in the dressing,

The steamed pot stickers ($4.95), filled with ground meat, were tender but under-seasoned, and, with fairly thick dough, more reminiscent of a Central Asian dumpling.

These together easily could have made a balanced dinner for two for less than $10.

If you really want a bargain, however, go for the three-course "family dinner" ($13.95 a person).

The hot and sour soup, in spite of being more gentle and sweet, was abundant with mushroom and tofu and a hearty way to begin.

The scrumptious cabbage was included in the appetizer course, which included greaseless egg rolls and deep-fried shrimp.

There are more than a dozen main-course choices. The almond chicken was delicious, with a hint of garlic, almonds, breast meat, peas, diced carrots, mushrooms and zucchini. Empress shrimp, which claims to be hot, was more like sweet and sour, but beautiful with crinkle-cut carrots, zucchini, water chestnuts, broccoli, green beans and plump shrimp.

Indeed, all of Hunan's dishes are vibrant rainbows of color. Among the prettiest were the vegetables in garlic sauce ($7.55) with garden-fresh zucchini, yellow squash, carrots, green beans, broccoli, mushrooms -- and I'll wager more on any given night, depending on what is in the kitchen. Stir-fried and al dente, everything was bathed in a light sauce that let the flavors stand out, even if it was sorely in need of garlic.

I also sampled mu shu pork ($8.95), the do-it-yourself wraps with Chinese crepes and a stir-fried filling of mushroom, egg and scallions with hoisin sauce on the side; and a hearty and gorgeous eggplant in garlic sauce ($8.95) with pork.

Hunan -- friendly with the customers, generous with the portions and convenient in location and parking -- has earned its reputation as one of Lexington's venerable independent restaurants. The only additional ingredient I would want is more authenticity.

Dinner for two, with lots to take home and two beers, cost about $45.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Hunan

Address: 115 Southland Dr.

Phone: (859) 278-3811, (859) 278-3814.

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.- 11 p.m. Fri., noon-11 p.m. Sat. Sunday buffet: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Other: Credit cards accepted. Alcoholic beverages served. Parking lot. Many vegetarian options. Family-friendly.