Jonathan at Gratz Park: Seasonally effective

Jonathan's Artful Use of Ingredients Keeps It Atop the Food Chain

By Clinton H. Comley Contributing Restaurant Critic

Jonathan at Gratz Park is one of Central Kentucky's most well-known restaurants, but I had never visited.

Knowing that chef Jonathan Lundy takes great pride in using local ingredients, I was eager to see what he could accomplish as we approach the colder months. It didn't take long for me to realize what all of the fuss is about.

My wife and I met some friends on a recent Friday evening, choosing to dine in the English pub room as opposed to the main dining room. While both serve from the same menu, the pub room was a better fit for an informal evening with friends. After ordering wine from the extensive list, we chose pot stickers and "oyster skins" special for appetizers. While the pot stickers were too salty for our liking, the oyster skins -- potato skins topped with a fried oyster and pimento cheese -- were unique and sinfully delicious. I could almost feel my cholesterol rising but couldn't care less.

For the salad courses we chose fried green tomato salad, warmed Saga blue cheese salad and Kentucky hot slaw. Of the three, the fried green tomatoes were in good shape considering the season, but the buttermilk dressing suffered from a lack of flavor. My favorite was the slaw. It had thick slices of cabbage and peppers simmered in a mustard and bacon dressing that was slightly tart -- a smart twist on a standard mustard-based slaw. The blue cheese salad was a warmed wedge of Saga blue cheese that oozed over candied walnuts, apples and mixed greens.

When ordering our entrees, we had some tough decisions because no one wanted to order the same dish. After working out our differences we decided on Kentucky bison brisket, skillet-blackened salmon, mushroom-dusted beef tenderloin, and vegetables and dumplings. Each was fantastic in its own way. The bison brisket, while tasty and flavorful, suffered from a lack of moisture, perhaps because bison is a leaner animal. The accompanying sweet potato hash added a touch of autumn and rounded out this hearty meal nicely.

The skillet-blackened salmon -- a staple at Jonathan, we were told -- was served over a soybean succotash and a fluffy crawfish corn pudding -- both classic Southern sides with a Lundy twist.

The beef tenderloin, was, believe it or not, simple and straightforward: beef tenderloin over mashed potatoes with mushrooms, asparagus and a simple demi-glace. Sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone.

As for the vegetables and dumplings, I was pleasantly surprised. The potato dumplings with root vegetables and a brown butter sauce was one of my favorites of the evening. And when my wife couldn't finish it, I was quick to request a box -- the only one for the evening, which should tell you something.

I would be remiss not to mention the flaming bourbon creme brulee. A sucker for anything with bourbon, brulee and flames, I couldn't pass on this dessert. The great taste was simply an added bonus.

Clearly all of Jonathan at Gratz Park's accolades are well-deserved. The food -- dishes with a few twists here and there -- is unique.

Dinner for four with wine and tax but without tip was about $250.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Jonathan at Gratz Park

Address: 120 W. Second St.

Phone: (859) 252-4949.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sun., 5:30-10 p.m. Sun.-Sat. Bar opens at 5 p.m.

Other: Major credit cards accepted, vegetarian offerings available, handicapped accessible, extensive wine list. Online: www.jagp.info.