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The Mansion: Grand opulence

The extravagant Mansion experience falls just short of perfection

By Wendy Miller Contributing Restaurant Critic

The grand doors open like a Disney moment to a promise of splendor. Everything is lit up like a Christmas tree during this holiday season -- a harbinger of an evening of exceedingly professional service (courtesy of longtime waitstaff member Ron Bradley) that is non-intrusive while blending dignified erudition with approachable formality, in a room of hushed lighting, with food and drink whose high-end tab is commensurate with the high ceilings and elaborate chandeliers.

But what else should one expect from an expensive dinner in a mansion?

For one thing, a menu with ingredients and execution that stretch the diner's imagination and the kitchen's talents. For another, demanding standards of excellence and attention to detail. And finally, an impeccable wine.

So, is The Mansion at Griffin Gate Marriott Resort and Spa, like its Disneyian entrance, the "happiest place on earth"?

It is, when you're nibbling the amuse-bouche, which on this visit was crostini with a dollop of lobster salad sprinkled with chives, like a riff on a Maine lobster roll, sweet with shellfish and mayonnaise. After that, some moments were happier than others.

Among the first courses, a heavenly creamy turnip soup was poured with dramatic flourish over a walnut croquant (a nutty confection), a bit of poached pear and a slice of seared foie gras ($13), all an homage to fall's fleeting bounty. The Mansion's new, and distinguished, executive chef Nicolas Trueblood's concept was lovely -- rich mouth feel, followed by sweetness and complex textures with a crunch here, a melting bite of pear there. Almost perfect, save for the overseared foie gras that lost its cloudlike quality and took on a slight aftertaste of burnt liver.

Another appetizer unique to The Mansion was the wide pappardelle noodles, tinted with saffron, topped with tomato ragout containing tiny morsels of lobster and braised oxtail ($15). This dish needed work: The pasta was gummy because it was too thick, and the meat had some dry, stringy strands among others that were fork-tender.

Between courses appeared a palate cleanser of lemon ice that was more ice than lemon.

No complaints, though, about the buttery roasted sea bass, served with simple half-moons of charred cipollini onions, pinto bean puree, dots of creme fraiche and refreshing leaves of cilantro salad ($36). All nice, and all just enough.

Slices of grilled venison, cooked medium, paired beautifully with chestnut puree, a Brussels sprout gratin, Trumpet Royale mushrooms from France and an apple cider gastrique (a sweet-tart reduction made with sugar and vinegar or tart fruit juice) ($36). I am never happier than in a restaurant that honors seasonality. Only the presentation was wanting: The puree and gastrique appeared to have been randomly tossed on the plate, rather than achieving the abstract and casual effect that I think was wanted.

Rumor has it that The Mansion's creme brulee is delicious, but peach bread pudding with caramel sauce ($6) seemed like the perfect cozy dessert to share -- and it was.

About the wine list -- I am just baffled. In an exacting environment, typos are a shock (Beringer is missspelled as Berringer, and online, Rhone was spelled "Rone"). And sometimes, rarely, vintages were given. What were the criteria? Beats me.

There is still something splendid about dining in Old World elegance, particularly if you surrender to the opulence and world-class service. But The Mansion falls just short of being a "magic kingdom" because, at these prices, one expects perfection.

Dinner for two, including four glasses of wine and tax but not tip, was about $158.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

The Mansion at Griffin Gate Marriott Resort and Spa

Address: 1800 Newtown Pike, adjacent to the resort

Hours: 6-10 p.m. Tue.-Sat.

Phone: (859) 231-5100 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; (859) 288-6142 after 5 p.m.

Online: www.mansionrestaurant.com.

Other: All major credit cards accepted. Reservations recommended. Dress business casual. Limited vegetarian options. Parking lot.