For a while now, I have been hearing the buzz about Local Feed, a Georgetown restaurant that has been open for a little more than a year, so I decided to see for myself what the fuss was about.
Four of us went for dinner on a recent Wednesday night, and even midweek, the restaurant was packed. Even with a reservation, we were told we would have a 15- to 20-minute wait, or we could be seated immediately on the patio.
We opted for the patio for a round of drinks and a couple of appetizers: the fried pickles and a skillet of cornbread with sorghum butter. Both were delicious, especially the cornbread. But the muggy weather forced us to request a table indoors as soon as one became available.
Our server found one for us almost immediately (good service is a hallmark at Local Feed), and thus the serious dining began. Two of our party ordered the ample burgers ($10, $13 with add-ons including bacon or egg), and both pronounced them done to perfection, with one saying it was one of the few times she had gotten a burger cooked to her specifications — medium rare but pink in the center.
The hearty bean soup ($8) ordered as a starter by another in our party also got raves, but I was less fortunate with my choice of appetizer: deviled eggs with ham crisps and chives ($7). Not that it wasn’t good; I just didn’t have a chance to find out, because the server failed to bring it (the only lapse in service the entire evening).
For a main course, I wish I had ordered the catfish with a tangy lemon remoulade ($14) that another of our group did. I tasted his, and it was excellent — just crisp enough, and the remoulade added zest.
I didn’t fare as well with my meatloaf entree ($15), which was a bit bland and not quite as firm as I like it.
That certainly wasn’t the case with the two desserts we sampled: blackberry cobbler with lemon buttermilk, and bourbon walnut tort, the latter especially flavorful with its handmade crust and filling.
The wine and beer list are adequate, but it’s the bourbon selection that really shines, with about 70 on the list (including one distilled in Wyoming that I had to try).
This emphasis makes sense, because there’s bourbon history in a park across the street: the spring where Elijah Craig supposedly first drew water to make the commonwealth’s signature beverage.
On another visit, a friend and I went to Local Feed’s Sunday brunch (also offered on Saturday). Choices are more limited than at dinner, but what they do have is more than enough for a respectable brunch.
I opted for several small plates, starting with a dish of Brussels sprouts ($8), accented with bacon bits, cream, mustard and a poached egg. It might sound like an unusual combination, but the flavors work well together. Even better was the pancake, a fluffy concoction served in a skillet with apples and maple syrup.
My friend tried one of the mains, a hash with potatoes, sausage, eggs and gravy and pronounced it well-balanced, with even textures, and said “the creamy gravy amended, rather than drowned the dish.”
The décor has the industrial feel that’s so in vogue these days: lots of exposed brick and pipes, concrete floor and open kitchen.
With those concrete floors (and music played a tad too vigorously for a dining experience), it can get loud at full capacity. However, for its locally sourced menu (the motto is “seed to feed”), and friendly service, Local Feed is well worth the drive to Georgetown.
Patti Nickell is a Lexington-based travel and food writer. Reach her at email@example.com.
Hours: opens 4 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday; 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday brunch
Address: 214 S. Water St., Georgetown
Payment: Major credit cards accepted
Other: Reservations recommended for dinner