Restaurant News & Reviews

Don’t be afraid of the Bad Wolf, because its burgers are great

The Bad Wolf burger (onion straws, beer cheese, bacon) is the signature sandwich at Bad Wolf Burgers on Leestown Road, in the former Meadowthorpe Café.
The Bad Wolf burger (onion straws, beer cheese, bacon) is the signature sandwich at Bad Wolf Burgers on Leestown Road, in the former Meadowthorpe Café. palcala@herald-leader.com

What I really wanted was the giant Nutella brownie I had read about.

I wasn’t going to get it. The counter help at Bad Wolf Burgers in Meadowthorpe, which has a cultlike following for its thick spicy burgers, didn’t know why, but the restaurant had no dessert offerings — on a Saturday yet.

It was my second time at Bad Wolf sampling the burgers. My first experience was ordering a Bad Wolf burger a few days earlier, so the bar was already high.

The signature Bad Wolf burger ($8.99) is a fresh hunk of beef cooked in front of you by a grill cook who plainly knows her away around tasty burgers. It is sandwiched by onion straws on the bottom and bacon and beer cheese spread on the top.

Normally I am no fan of bacon, but something about it with beer cheese and a beef patty works beautifully.

Either cut it into sections or lever your mouth open as far as your jaw will pop, because it’s a tall burger.

On the second visit I had the Spalding burger ($8.49), which got my sweet tooth out of the way. Lately there are a lot of breakfast-themed burgers around town, and this one comes between a sliced Spalding doughnut with a fried egg and bacon in addition to the beef.

It’s a lot of flavor crammed into one burger, but perhaps not as impressively balanced as the Bad Wolf burger.

The fries are standard crinkle-cut, dusted with pepper. There are plenty. Onion rings are an extra $2.50 and are batter-dipped but not especially memorable. There’s both a cooler and a fountain where Ale-8-One fans can imbibe to their heart’s desire.

On the second visit, we also had a plainer burger, a Townley burger ($7.49). It came with standard burger fixings and was tasty without the addition of doughnut, egg or onion straws. That beer cheese, however, would be great on anything, including the doughnut.

The décor, the restaurant name and some of the menu items allude to the cult TV show “Doctor Who.” I’m not a fan, so I wondered whether the Tardis phone booth could be used as seating for one, because Bad Wolf provides about 50 seats, and those are packed tight. In the back you get a wall of ’80s vinyl album covers, including Prince’s Purple Rain and Madonna’s Like a Virgin. If nothing else, it helps you remember how old you are.

Bad Wolf Burgers can easily give you a more-than-filling meal for about $10. However, I am still waiting for that Nutella brownie.

Restaurant review

Bad Wolf Burgers

Where: 1415 Leestown Rd.

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.

Phone: 859-258-2222

Online: Bit.ly/1RCOMJz

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