Love for single malt in the heart of bourbon country? New Kentucky brand says yes.
On a balmy November evening, a group of spirits writers gathered inside a tent on an empty field in the Shelby County hamlet of Waddy to enjoy a three-course dinner. The dinner was accompanied by what — if Karl Schoen has his way — may become the commonwealth’s newest spirits sensation.
And no, it’s not a bourbon.
Schoen, a Los Angeles native who now resides in New York, is founder and CEO of the brand Perfect Fifth, and his passion is to bring single malt whisky — often incorrectly referred to as Scotch when it’s distilled outside of Scotland — to Bourbonland.
As an independent bottler of rare and exceptional whiskies known for their character and complexity, Schoen curates barrels from around the world to bottle under his own brand.
However, the 170 acres in Shelby County will be the company’s first permanent footprint.
Already up and running in a 1,500-square-foot retrofitted barn is a barley malting facility. Over the next year, Schoen foresees the completion of Phase 1 of the project, which will include a 20,000-square-foot warehouse, an experimental still house with pot still and bottling facility, and a barrel pick experience.
He says that down the road plans call for a 30,000- to 40,000-square-foot distilling experience.
The obvious question — why Waddy for this ambitious project? Schoen says the reasons are fourfold.
“Obviously, Kentucky is the center of the whiskey industry in America,” he says. “It’s where all the resources are.”
He goes on to add that the area’s topography, with its forested ravines and ridges, is ideal, and the location — halfway between Louisville and Lexington, and in close proximity to Frankfort couldn’t be better.
Another reason for his choice, he says, is that “Shelby County has been very welcoming and open to working with us.”
And his final reason?
“I’ve fallen in love with this part of Kentucky,” says Schoen.
It all sounds perfect, but the obvious question arises: With bourbon so entrenched in the hearts and minds of Kentuckians, is there a market for single malt whiskey?
Will those used to the smooth, silky finish of a finely crafted bourbon be equally enamored of a peaty, grassy product that originated in the Highlands of Scotland?
“Absolutely, there is a strong market for it,” insists Schoen. “You have to remember that globally, single malt is the dominant spirit; only in America is it bourbon.”
He acknowledges that as a fairly new industry, the single malt being produced in America hasn’t yet begun to compete with the centuries of distilling tradition in Scotland. However, he sees this as a challenge for Kentucky distillers rather than a deterrent.
“Bulleit and New Riff have started working with single malt distilling and Jim Beam already has a single malt product on the market,” says Schoen.
The savvy Schoen firmly believes that his new venture will be a success, and that Kentuckians have room in their hearts (and cupboards) for more than one spirit.
There’s just one thing they need to remember, he says.
“Don’t call it Scotch; it’s single malt whiskey.”