Bourbon & Bars

‘60 Minutes’ takes a deep dive into Kentucky bourbon — or at least into the barrel

“60 Minutes” will air a piece on April 6 on Kentucky’s barrel making industry, a key part of the bourbon aging process.
“60 Minutes” will air a piece on April 6 on Kentucky’s barrel making industry, a key part of the bourbon aging process. Provided

The award-winning CBS news show “60 Minutes” apparently spent some time recently in Kentucky.

Were they digging into corruption? Or putting their hard-hitting journalists to work uncovering a big scandal?

Not exactly. Instead, correspondent Bill Whitaker spent some time exploring bourbon barrel making.

According to a clip shown in an advance piece, Whitaker visited with barrel makers and bourbon makers, exploring the way the wood influences the flavor of Kentucky whiskey.

Kentucky is home to several cooperages, or barrel-making factories, that often work directly with specific distilleries to create custom barrels that enhance elements of bourbon.

Why the barrel is important to bourbon

The depth of the charring on the inside, the degree of toasting of the wooden staves, even the amount of surface area exposed to the newly distilled spirit can be adjusted to change the end result.

The deepest char, known as “alligator char” for its resemblance to gator hide, comes from burning the inside of the barrel for nearly a minute and results in intense, smoky flavor and deep color.

All of bourbon’s color and much of its flavor and aroma come from the wood. When barrels are fired they are equipped with heavy-duty rings that can withstand the flames. Those are replaced down the line.
All of bourbon’s color and much of its flavor and aroma come from the wood. When barrels are fired they are equipped with heavy-duty rings that can withstand the flames. Those are replaced down the line. Herald-Leader

How many barrels are made every year? Millions.

In 2023, a record 3.2 million barrels were filled with bourbon in Kentucky, joining more than 11 million already aging in warehouses across the state.

And bourbon makers can’t reuse them: To qualify as bourbon, it must be aged in new barrels, although Scotch, rum and tequila also age in used bourbon barrels for extra flavor.

When a barrel is ready, it is dumped and the bourbon is readied for bottling.
When a barrel is ready, it is dumped and the bourbon is readied for bottling. Provided

Bourbon barrels can be made only from white oak, which has been the focus of increasing efforts from the industry and from Kentucky researchers to protect the species and replant diminishing forests.

Janet Patton
Lexington Herald-Leader
Janet Patton covers restaurants, bars, food and bourbon for the Herald-Leader. She is an award-winning business reporter who also has covered agriculture, gambling, horses and hemp. Support my work with a digital subscription
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