Food & Recipes

Is Lexington’s most famous fried chicken back? We taste it and find out.

Good news! Fans of the delicious golden brown fried chicken previously sold at Lexington’s former Save-A-Lot store on Southland Drive can now enjoy it once again — for lunch or dinner, by the piece, by the meal, or by the bucket.

Critchfield Meats Family Market has made good on their promise from 2020 to begin selling the locally popular fried chicken at the retailer’s new location at the beginning of 2021 — the same spot previously occupied by Save-A-Lot.

Famous in Lexington for their fine cuts of beef since 1969, Critchfield’s now occupies the much larger 21,000-square-foot building after relocating there from Zandale Drive in the fall of 2020, and is now offering the pressure-cooked finger-licking, tasty fried chicken on their daily hot deli bar. The best news is, the chicken is just as good as you remember.

I have tried it two times since Critchfield’s began offering the chicken as part of a soft opening of their hot deli bar on Jan. 4 and it was terrific on both occasions.

According to a 2018 Herald-Leader review, the secret to the crispy, crunchy, moist and flavorful fried chicken is in the special breading mix, which is the same one used when the store was a Slone’s Signature Market and more recently a Save-A-Lot.

Before: The famous fried chicken plate lunch with green beans and macaroni and cheese at Save-A-Lot, 398 Southland Drive in Lexington.
Before: The famous fried chicken plate lunch with green beans and macaroni and cheese at Save-A-Lot, 398 Southland Drive in Lexington. Charles Bertram cbertram@herald-leader.com
A 12-piece of fried chicken from Critchfield Meats Family Market on Jan. 16. The Lexington meat shop took over making the popular deli fried chicken when they moved into the Southland Sav-A-Lot.
A 12-piece of fried chicken from Critchfield Meats Family Market on Jan. 16. The Lexington meat shop took over making the popular deli fried chicken when they moved into the Southland Sav-A-Lot. Brian Simms bsimms@herald-leader.com

Save-A-Lot closed the Southland Drive location — the only location that sold the chicken — at the end of July 2020, and it was feared that the renowned fried chicken might be gone forever.

Hats off to the Critchfield family for preserving the history of the locally legendary chicken and for now offering it to current and future generations of fried chicken lovers to enjoy. Popular for lunch and dinner and at office parties and with tailgaters, the chicken has a culinary cult-like following.

A 12-piece from Critchfield Meats, which used to to be the Southland Sav-A-Lot and what many believed was the best fried chicken in Lexington.
A 12-piece from Critchfield Meats, which used to to be the Southland Sav-A-Lot and what many believed was the best fried chicken in Lexington. Brian Simms bsimms@herald-leader.com

The timing for offering fried chicken could not be better. According to a recent analysis by TOP Data, American consumers remain hungry for fried chicken. Fast food restaurants featuring fried chicken have performed considerably better during the current pandemic than other fast-food outlets, including those featuring burgers or pizza.

That is good news for Critchfield Meats as the former Save-A-Lot fried chicken was already considered by many to be the best fried chicken in Lexington.

Two deli employees from the former Save-A-Lot store have transitioned to Critchfield’s, according to Mark Critchfield, president of Critchfield Meats Family Market, who himself was helping to serve up the hot deli bar meals on both of my recent visits there — and business was brisk.

Mark Critchfield, Critchfield Meats president, poses for a portrait outside the new Critchfield Meats and Family Market at 398 Southland Dr. in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, Nov. 4, 2020.
Mark Critchfield, Critchfield Meats president, poses for a portrait outside the new Critchfield Meats and Family Market at 398 Southland Dr. in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, Nov. 4, 2020. Ryan C. Hermens rhermens@herald-leader.com

On the Monday of the hot deli bar soft opening, approximately 500 pieces of chicken flew out the door. That number doubled on Tuesday to 1,000 pieces as the news began to spread by word-of-mouth and social media that the chicken was once again available in Lexington.

Mark Critchfield notes that he expects to eventually sell around 2,000 pieces of chicken on average per day.

“So far everything is all thumbs up. We’re getting good reviews,” he said.

The line of people waiting to order at the hot bar upon each of my visits speaks for itself.

The chicken is cooked fresh each day until about 6 p.m. and is sold by the individual piece, 2-piece meal with two sides ($6.99), 3-piece meal with two sides ($8.49), or by the bucket in 8, 12, 24 or 48 pieces. There is also a “Family Meal Deal” that includes 8 pieces of chicken, 3 large sides, and 4 rolls available ($26.99).

The prince for a 12 piece of fried chicken from Critchfield Meats Family Market on Jan. 16. The Lexington meat shop took over making the popular deli fried chicken when they moved into the Southland Sav-A-Lot.
The prince for a 12 piece of fried chicken from Critchfield Meats Family Market on Jan. 16. The Lexington meat shop took over making the popular deli fried chicken when they moved into the Southland Sav-A-Lot. Brian Simms bsimms@herald-leader.com

Critchfield’s hot deli bar includes not only fried chicken and meatloaf every day, there are also rotating entrees on the daily menu including a Kentucky Hot Brown, pork chops, chicken fried steak, fried catfish, pork roast, bean soup, salmon croquettes, and turkey and dressing.

Side items include macaroni and cheese, creamed corn, mashed potatoes (with or without gravy), green beans, cole slaw, collard greens and various prepackaged sides, and all items are made from scratch.

An entrée and any two side items are $6.99. Hot side items are also available individually in 6-oz. size for $1.99 or 16-oz. size for $4.69.

Mark Critchfield notes that the butterflake rolls from Burke’s Bakery & Delicatessen in Danville are a popular item on the hot bar. Cornbread is also available.

For dessert, there is a variety of homemade brownies, cobbler, cookies, carrot cake, and chocolate cake. (Hungry yet?)

The hot deli bar is available Monday through Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., and from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.

In related news, “Butch’s Grill” is set to open on Feb. 1 inside Critchfield’s Market. “Butch” was the nickname of Amos Critchfield, the company’s founder. Customers called him “Butch” — short for “Butcher.”

The grill will offer burgers, ribeye steak sandwiches, hot dogs, and chicken sandwiches and there will be an exterior walk-up window for pick-ups. There is limited seating available for inside dining at Critchfield’s for those who cannot wait to get home to eat.

An official store grand opening celebration and annual outdoor events are in the planning for later this year in warmer weather.

Hot bar updates and in-store specials are being posted via video periodically on the Critchfield Meats Family Market’s Facebook page here: Facebook.com/Critchfield.Meats.

So, when you are ready for a delicious hot lunch or dinner featuring some of the best fried chicken in Lexington, or other delicious comfort food, Critchfield’s Meats Family Market Home Style Deli has you covered.

Rob Bolson is a local foodie who prides himself of eating local. Often.

Critchfield Meats Family Market

Where: 398 Southland Drive

Call: 859-276-4965

Hours: Monday-Saturday: 9 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday: 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

Facebook: @Critchfield.Meats

Instagram: @Critchfieldmeatsretailstore

Website: critchfieldmeats.com/

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