Warm up winter with this cheesy potato soup with a sweet-hot kick

One of the many upsides to having a spouse who loves to bake bread is that our soup consumption goes up as the temperatures go down. Because, really, is there a homier winter meal than a butter-slathered slice of sourdough dunked in a bowl of homemade soup?

I’ll make soup out of almost anything that crosses my cutting board, but potatoes are a staple in the pot. Usually, I pair them with leeks for a brothy, allium-sweet soup filled with pillowy nuggets of Yukon Golds.

But this potato-cheddar variation is an entirely different thing. Taking its cue not from chunky vegetable soup but from cheesy mashed potatoes, it’s a silky-smooth purée that’s rich but not excessive, hearty but not heavy, and spiked with a little chili powder and a lot of garlic to liven things up.

Served unadorned, it’s a lovely and mellow meal in its own right. But the no-cook, quick-pickled jalapeños really make it shine, and throwing them together couldn’t be easier. Just slice them, douse them with fresh lime juice, stir in a pinch of salt and sugar, and let everything hang out while the soup simmers. That’s all there is to it, and the payoff is big, with the jalapeño slices perking up every spoonful of soup.

One thing you’ll have to decide is whether to remove the jalapeño seeds. This will depend on how spicy you like things, and how fiery your peppers are. Sometimes you can predict the heat of a chile by smelling it — if it’s a scorcher, it will make your nose tingle. But a more reliable way is to cut one open and give its guts a lick. Usually, I end up removing some but not all of the seeds by shaking the opened pepper over the sink. It’s the lazy person’s way, and it works for me.

Along with the pickled peppers, I garnish bowls with some cilantro and scallions for freshness, plus plenty of grated Cheddar, which melts into a gooey raft as it meets the hot soup.

Then pair it with a leafy salad for something green, along with slices of good crusty bread to round it all out. Whether you get those slices from a homemade loaf or otherwise, you’ll be happy for the chance to sop up every last drop of this savory, creamy soup.

Potato-Cheddar Soup With Quick-Pickled Jalapeños

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 1 hour

• 2 jalapeños
• 2 limes, halved
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• Large pinch of sugar or a drop of honey
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 large Spanish or white onion, diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, plus more for garnish
• 2 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 quart vegetable broth
• 2 cups grated cheddar (8 ounces), plus more for garnish
• 1 cup half-and-half, or use 1/2 cup whole milk and 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
• Chopped cilantro, for serving

1. Thinly slice the jalapeños, discarding the seeds if you like. Put slices in a bowl and squeeze in enough lime juice to cover them. Add a pinch each of salt and sugar. Let sit at room temperature while you make the soup. (The jalapeños can be prepared up to 5 days ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator; they get softer and more pickle-y as they sit.)
2. In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add onion, celery and a large pinch of salt, and sauté until lightly golden and soft, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and chili powder and sauté until fragrant, 1 minute.
3. Add potatoes, broth and 2 teaspoons salt, and bring to a simmer. Cook until potatoes are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
4. Using an immersion blender or transferring the soup to a regular blender in batches, purée the soup, adding some water as needed to thin it out. (The soup can be as thick or brothy as you like.)
5. Return the soup to the pot if you removed it and reduce heat to medium-low. Add cheese and half-and-half, and cook at a very gentle simmer, stirring, until the cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.
6. Top each bowl with pickled jalapeños, plus a drizzle of their pickling liquid and a pinch of chili powder, along with scallions, cilantro and more cheddar.

This story was originally published February 22, 2021 at 6:00 AM.