Food & Recipes

They ‘set the standard for what local is.’ Help this Lexington store celebrate 50 years

Good Foods Co-op, once Lexington’s only source for organic, bulk and alternative foods, is celebrating a milestone in local food.

“We set the standard for what local is,” said Merrick Johnson, spokesman for Good Foods Co-op. “Many groceries are trying to be local but we’re hyper local. That makes the co-op very special. There are farms that really depend on sales from our store.”

The cooperative grocery store and restaurant, which began as a food buyers’ club in 1972, will celebrate 50 years being open, having made it through many moves, a few economic downturns and a pandemic.

Although the actual anniversary is in November, the Lexington store is planning a party in October to take advantage of the warmer weather.

What would become the cooperative was started by seven students from the University of Kentucky and in the earliest days they would meet in each others’ homes to divide up the bulk goods.

In 2018, Good Foods Co-op, the cooperative grocery, announced the store might have to move from 455 Southland Drive after three years of losses and another loss expected that year, according to the co-op’s annual report. But so far the co-op has remained at the location.
In 2018, Good Foods Co-op, the cooperative grocery, announced the store might have to move from 455 Southland Drive after three years of losses and another loss expected that year, according to the co-op’s annual report. But so far the co-op has remained at the location. Charles Bertram cbertram@herald-leader.com
Good Foods offers a large selection of bulk foods. Photo taken on Tuesday, March 6, 2012 at the Good Foods Co-op on Southland Drive in Lexington, Ky. The co-op had 6,000 owner/members in 2012, and now has almost 10,000.
Good Foods offers a large selection of bulk foods. Photo taken on Tuesday, March 6, 2012 at the Good Foods Co-op on Southland Drive in Lexington, Ky. The co-op had 6,000 owner/members in 2012, and now has almost 10,000. HERALD-LEADER
The Good Foods Co-op’s first Southland Drive location in 1986 after moving from the Woodhill spot.
The Good Foods Co-op’s first Southland Drive location in 1986 after moving from the Woodhill spot. Photo provided

The store moved around a lot in the beginning until it landed on Southland Drive in 1986. It’s been in its present 12,000-square-foot location at 455 Southland Dr. since 1999. It weathered some financial difficulties, both internal and external.

In 2002, it became a true cooperative and sold its first share in January 2003.

The store added a cafe and meeting space in 2002; after a major renovation the larger version debuted in 2010. The cafe has a coffee shop that sells sandwiches as well as a popular hot bar, soup bar and salad bar with a rotating menu. Many regulars are devoted to the hot bar’s kale, which is available every day and has to be replenished constantly.

Anthony and Kate Humphress enjoyed a lunch with their children, Rylie, 4, and A.J., 2, in 2012.
Anthony and Kate Humphress enjoyed a lunch with their children, Rylie, 4, and A.J., 2, in 2012. HERALD-LEADER
In 2012, Good Foods Co-op said they were exploring the possibility of adding a second location but the plans never materialized.
In 2012, Good Foods Co-op said they were exploring the possibility of adding a second location but the plans never materialized. HERALD-LEADER

There’s also a grab-and-go section, a sushi bar and in-store bakery.

The last decade has been a big shift for the co-op, which has seen increasing pressure from mainstream stores and for-profit grocery chains such as Whole Foods that see a big market in “natural” foods.

Beef from Marksbury Farm sits for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Good Foods is able to keep shelves stocked with more fresh products due to their relationships with farms throughout Kentucky.
Beef from Marksbury Farm sits for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Good Foods is able to keep shelves stocked with more fresh products due to their relationships with farms throughout Kentucky. Alex Slitz aslitz@herald-leader.com
Bottles of milk from JD Country Milk located in Russellville, Ky., sit for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020.
Bottles of milk from JD Country Milk located in Russellville, Ky., sit for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Alex Slitz aslitz@herald-leader.com
Fresh eggs from Centerfield Eggs located in Nicholasville, Ky., sit for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020.
Fresh eggs from Centerfield Eggs located in Nicholasville, Ky., sit for sale at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Alex Slitz aslitz@herald-leader.com

As they have moved closer to Good Foods’ ideals of healthier eating, the co-op has looked for better ways to differentiate itself and keep the customer base strong.

General manager Robert Walker, who has been with the co-op for 12 years, said one of the biggest changes he’s seen is increased diversity in the staff and in the consumers. Walker, who came to the co-op from law enforcement, said that the store has made a concerted effort to be part of the community.

“Putting feet down on the ground, in the community we want to reach, taking action in the community we want to be part of,” he said.

He said that’s paid off in a broader customer base and in a strong community of owners.

Can anyone shop at Good Foods Co-op Lexington?

Although anyone can shop there these days, you also can become a member for a $200 refundable investment which delivers extra rewards points for discounts and a vote on the co-op’s future, among other things.

Today there are almost 10,000 members in the co-op, which has made a niche in ultra local foods like locally baked breads; organic pasture-raised locally processed meats, milk and eggs; and produce sourced directly from Kentucky farms. The co-op supports more than 150 Kentucky farmers and producers.

“Focusing on local is where we shine,” Johnson said. “Historically we’ve hit on organically, allergen friendly and other options but now really focusing on local, and we can do that lot more true to character than other chains can. That’s what differentiates us in the market, especially in Lexington which has a commitment to small business and farmers.”

Many customers shop there for specialty items like vegan and vegetarian foods as well as gluten-free or dairy-free options, which are also frequently available in the cafe. The store also sells a wide variety of vitamins and dietary supplements.

The co-op also partners with the local non-profit FoodChain, selling locally grown and minimally processed foods.

Luke Blankenship, of Wilmore, Ky., restocks bell peppers at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Good Foods is able to keep shelves stocked with more fresh products due to their relationships with farms throughout Kentucky.
Luke Blankenship, of Wilmore, Ky., restocks bell peppers at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Good Foods is able to keep shelves stocked with more fresh products due to their relationships with farms throughout Kentucky. Alex Slitz aslitz@herald-leader.com

Good Foods Co-op

Where: 455 Southland Dr.

Hours: Daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; hot bar open Monday-Friday 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. with limited selection of breakfast items, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. lunch/dinner menu, Saturday and Sunday noon to 8 p.m.

50th anniversary event: Fall Festival Oct. 15, from 4 to 7 p.m., with live music, activities for kids, beer sampling, free cake, local vendors offering free samples and a cookout with burgers, hot dogs and sides for sale.

Online: goodfoods.coop

Call: 859-278-1813

In the early days of the COVID pandemic, Tiffany McGowan, of Versailles, Ky., works to disinfect the dairy case at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020.
In the early days of the COVID pandemic, Tiffany McGowan, of Versailles, Ky., works to disinfect the dairy case at Good Foods Co-op in Lexington, Ky., Wednesday, March 25, 2020. Alex Slitz aslitz@herald-leader.com

This story was originally published October 5, 2022 at 6:00 AM.

Related Stories from Lexington Herald Leader
Janet Patton
Lexington Herald-Leader
Janet Patton covers restaurants, bars, food and bourbon for the Herald-Leader. She is an award-winning business reporter who also has covered agriculture, gambling, horses and hemp. Support my work with a digital subscription
Get one year of unlimited digital access for $159.99
#ReadLocal

Only 44¢ per day

SUBSCRIBE NOW