Be creative in mixing melon with other flavors

A good melon is way too wonderful to be treated only as a sweet.

There are plenty of traditional examples of this. The most obvious is melon and prosciutto, and a very good one it is: the satin saltiness of the ham playing against the buttery sweetness of the melon. That's only the beginning of possibilities.

I've been playing with versions of my own recently, mainly because my kitchen counters have been overflowing with melons, so good has this summer's harvest been.

My experiments have not been unadulterated successes. For example, although tomato-watermelon salads seem to be everywhere, I have not been able to come up with a combination of my own that really seems to be an improvement on either watermelon or tomato by itself.

Instead of trying to make the two work together, I just replaced the tomato with watermelon in a Middle Eastern combination with cubed fresh feta. The textural difference is interesting, the watermelon being crisp and somewhat granular rather than the tomatoes' melting softness.

But what really makes the dish work is the flavor pairing of power with power. The watermelon is so explosively juicy and sweet that you can add all kinds of big tastes — not just salty feta but jalapeños, toasted cumin, lime, fresh mint — without overwhelming it. In this watermelon salad, the whole is even greater than the sum of its parts, no matter how large they might be.

Another of my favorites is the relatively sedate pairing of cantaloupe, smoked chicken and arugula.

Funny thing: I tried many versions of this before getting the one that worked the way I wanted. I tweaked the ratios of ingredients, adding more chicken or more arugula. I experimented with various vinegars and oil, and I balanced and re-balanced the dressing. (Because the melon is so juicy, you really need only a fraction of the fat you'd normally use. Also, add the dressing right before serving to keep it from becoming watery.)

It was one of those frustrating exercises in which I could sense that a really great salad was lurking right around the corner just out of my reach. All it needed was one little thing to pull it into focus.

Then I had a flash of inspiration. What about a final, generous grinding of black pepper? And that did it.

RECIPES

Watermelon salad with feta, mint and cumin-lime dressing

2 pounds watermelon cubes

1 pound feta, cut in cubes

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced

1½ teaspoons cumin seeds

3 tablespoons lime juice

Salt

1½ tablespoons oil

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

Combine watermelon, feta and jalapeño in serving bowl.

Toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until they become fragrant and begin to pop, about 2 minutes. If using a mortar and pestle, grind the cumin seeds to dust, add lime juice, salt to taste and oil, and whisk to a smooth emulsion. If using a blender, combine the cumin seeds, lime juice, salt and oil, and blend until smooth.

Just before serving, add half of the dressing to the watermelon mixture. Toss gently to keep everything whole and taste the salad. If desired, add more dressing. Add the chopped mint and toss gently.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 281 calories, 12 g. protein, 16 g. carbohydrates, 1 g. fiber, 20 g. fat, 12 g. saturated fat, 67 mg. cholesterol, 13 g. sugar, 847 mg. sodium.

Smoked chicken and cantaloupe salad

Note: Whole smoked chickens are available at some fancy grocery stores and delis. If you can't find a whole smoked chicken, use a rotisserie chicken instead.

1 tablespoon minced shallots

2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar

½ pound shredded smoked chicken

¾ pound diced cantaloupe

1 tablespoon oil

Pinch of salt

2 ounces (4 generous cups) torn arugula

Freshly ground black pepper

In a small bowl, combine the shallots and the vinegar, and set aside to steep for at least 5 minutes while you're preparing the rest of the ingredients.

Combine the chicken and the cantaloupe in a serving bowl, and set aside until ready to serve.

When ready to serve, whisk the oil into the vinegar mixture to make a smooth emulsion. Season with a pinch of salt.

Add the arugula to the chicken and cantaloupe. Pour dressing over the mixture and stir gently to ensure that everything is evenly coated. Finish with a good grinding of freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 161 calories, 15 g. protein, 9 g. carbohydrates, 1 g. fiber, 7 g. fat, 1 g. saturated fat, 43 mg. cholesterol, 7 g. sugar, 96 mg. sodium.

This story was originally published August 8, 2012 at 11:59 AM.