Cherry treats, including cherry-bourbon ice cream, are ripe for making

In the American South, we have plenty of peaches, strawberries, blueberries and figs, often in our own backyard.

Cherries, not so much.

But that does not — should not — stop us from loving the sweet little fruit that appears in stores and markets every summer. Ripe for popping, cherries are a delicious, healthy snack loaded with all kinds of vitamins, nutrients and things that are good for us.

Last summer, I went from eating cherries out of hand to cooking with them, and even making drinks out of them. I crushed them in a glass, added bourbon, a generous glug or two of ginger ale and a few drops of orange bitters, creating a bright red summer sipper that accentuated the sweetness of the cherries and the smoky allure of the whiskey.

Then, on a trip to Door County, Wis., I tasted my first fresh tart cherry, and my world changed.

Door County, a picturesque peninsula that juts into Lake Michigan, is known for its sour Montmorency cherries: ruby-red gems that zing with a haunting complexity redolent of wine and spice.

It was at Seaquist Orchards just outside Sister Bay, Wis., that I sampled my first Montmorency and met up with cherry baron Dale Seaquist, who gave me a tour of his farm and told me about the lady visitor who once inquired: "When do these cherries go 'bing'?" (Cymbal crash.)

A strapping, garrulous Wisconsinite, Seaquist, who had a vintage cherry-red Studebaker in the back of his warehouse with a "do not touch" sign on the window and wore a red-and-white-check shirt, is the best mouthpiece the Door County cherry industry could hope for.

It only makes sense that most cherry pies are made from tart cherries, Seaquist said, because they are smaller. Ergo: You can pack more cherries into the pastry and every bite. And who doesn't want more cherries?

At Seaquist Orchards' market, I discovered fresh-baked cherry pies and house-made cherry fudge, cherry jam and cherry salsa, cherry juice and cherry cider, dried cherries, frozen cherries, fresh cherries. And I developed a serious case of cherry fever.

As Seaquist told me, these juicy little Midwestern Montmorencys and other tart varieties are a challenge to ship. However, you may order dried Montmorencys from any number of sources, and they are great for cookies, bars, granola, etc. They are good in salads and may be chopped and added to salsas, relishes and chutneys.

I had terrific luck with the dried and frozen Montmorencys I ordered from Friske Orchards in the neighboring state of Michigan, the nation's No. 1 state for tart cherries.

So here's the thing about cooking with cherries. They are versatile. So if you can't find sour, most sweet varieties work just fine, though you might add a little lemon juice or zest to impart tartness. After heating up the kitchen to make cherry baked goods, I've decided that cold cherry treats — like ice creams, smoothies, cocktails and salsa — are the way to go in this hot summer season.

There'll be plenty of time for cherry baking this fall and winter. Right now, it's time for a pick-me-up, so I think I'll dump some cherries, bananas and nonfat yogurt in the blender and slurp my troubles away.

recipes

Here are recipes for a cool cherry salsa and cherry-bourbon ice cream.

Cherry salsa is a perfect way to enjoy fresh sweet cherries (or tart, if you can find them) as a summer snack with tortilla chips. Basil adds a hint of anise to the relish. But feel free to create your own recipe, using mint, cilantro, scallions, hot sauce or whatever mild or hot peppers you have on hand. Lime juice may be used in place of lemon. The salsa keeps well in the refrigerator, and would be delicious with grilled meats, chicken or as a stand-in for cranberries with turkey.

Cherry salsa

1 ½ cups stemmed, pitted and chopped cherries (may use sweet or tart)

1⁄3 cup chopped onion (may use white, yellow or red)

Zest of one small lemon

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon finely minced jalapeno pepper, seeds and stem removed (may use other chiles of choice, such as Serrano or Thai)

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

½ teaspoon salt

2⁄3 tablespoons chopped sweet basil (may use Thai basil)

Place the cherries, onion, lemon zest and juice, jalapeno, Worcestershire sauce and salt in a small bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings. (If using tart cherries, you may want to add a bit of sugar; start with 1 teaspoon, then more as needed.) Cover and chill for at least one hour before serving. Just before serving, stir in chopped basil. Makes: Almost 2 cups.

Per 1-tablespoon serving: 5 calories (percent of calories from fat, 4), trace protein, 1 g carbohydrates, trace fiber, trace fat (no saturated fat), no cholesterol, 36 mg sodium.

Cherries and smoky sweet bourbon are a heavenly marriage, especially when folded into this rich vanilla custard. You may also use rum or brandy. Chocolate sauce or shavings would be a nice addition.

Cherry-bourbon ice cream

For the cherry-bourbon sauce

1 ½ cups halved pitted cherries

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons bourbon

For the vanilla ice cream

1 ½ cups heavy cream

1 ½ cup whole milk

½ cup granulated sugar, divided

A pinch of kosher salt

½ vanilla bean (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)

5 large egg yolks

To make the sauce: Place pitted cherries, sugar, and 1 tablespoon water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until syrupy, 4-5 minutes. Remove from heat. Allow to cool for at least 15 minutes. Stir in bourbon. Cover and chill until to ready to make ice cream.

To make the ice cream: Combine heavy cream, whole milk, ¼ cup granulated sugar and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium saucepan. Split vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape in seeds; add pod (or use vanilla extract). Bring mixture just to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove from heat. If using vanilla bean, cover; let sit 30 minutes.

Whisk 5 large egg yolks and remaining ¼ cup sugar in a medium bowl until pale, about 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in ½ cup warm cream mixture. Whisk yolk mixture into remaining cream mixture. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat a wooden spoon, 2-3 minutes. Strain custard into a medium bowl set over a bowl of ice water. Place vanilla bean back in the custard. Let cool, stirring occasionally. Chill in refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

When ready to make the ice cream, fish the vanilla bean out of the custard and discard. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to an airtight container, and fold in cherry-bourbon sauce. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours and up to 1 week. Makes: About 1 quart.

Adapted from a recipe in Bon Appetit magazine, August 2013

Per ½ -cup serving: 309 calories (percent of calories from fat, 63), 4 g protein, 24 g carbohydrates, trace fiber, 21 g fat (12 g saturated), 200 mg cholesterol, 59 mg sodium.