Palmer’s Fresh Grill doesn’t specialize in cake, but dining there is sweet

As a regular customer at Joseph-Beth Booksellers in Lexington Green, I have frequently followed a shopping spree with lunch or dinner at its cozy café, Bronte’s Bistro. I like its literary ambiance, but I’m even more enamored of the restaurant directly below it, Palmer’s Fresh Grill.

With its spare, elegant décor (color scheme of white, cream and eggshell, bronze chandeliers and enlarged black-and-white photos of horses in action), it manages to be contemporary, cool and comfortable at the same time.

Ambience — even ambience like Palmer’s has — is the icing. The cake, of course, has to be the food, and what a delicious cake Palmer’s offers. I’ve worked my way through probably a quarter of its generous menu, and I can honestly say there hasn’t been one dish that has not had me licking my lips.

The sushi-grade scallops with applewood smoked bacon ($11.90) and the Rings of Fire, Tabasco-infused onion rings, buttermilk cream and house-smoked ketchup ($7.90), might be listed as “shareables,” but if you’re anything like me, you might find them so delicious you aren’t willing to share.

On a recent chilly Friday, a friend and I met here for lunch. The warm bread just out of the oven was the perfect accompaniment to a bowl of corn and clam chowder ($5.90). The clams were plump and succulent — unlike those in many chowders, where you need a magnifying glass to find them.

For my main, I chose — as I frequently do — the fish and chips: Kentucky beer-battered cod fillets, fried to perfection, with poblano tartar sauce ($10.90). My friend opted for the Cabo street fish tacos, served with Napa cabbage, chipotle aioli and the smoked ketchup ($11.90); you can have crispy shrimp in your taco for $2 more.

“What is it about this smoked ketchup,” my friend asked, “that makes everything taste more flavorful?” (I don’t know, but the chef uses the tangy ketchup to accessorize many of the dishes).

The three tacos were testimony to one of Palmer’s hallmarks: It is very generous with its portions. Another hallmark, of course, is that — as its name suggests — the ingredients are fresh.

They use only USDA Choice steaks and chops; they hand-cut the steaks and fish, and make all desserts in their kitchen daily. You can tell.

A third hallmark is the reasonably priced menu. The most expensive dishes on the dinner menu are the Chilean sea bass with mustard-caper beurre blanc, rice and seasoned vegetables, and the seared diver scallops with prosciutto, asparagus and lemon thyme beurre blanc (both $29.90).

Many dishes are less than $20, and the lunch menu includes selections less than $10. Do try the cornmeal crusted catfish, Palmer’s hot Brown and the smoked meatloaf minis with crisp onions and horseradish cream, all of which are less than $10.

Daily specials also range from affordable (a fried green tomato caprese for $9) to pricier (pan-seared halibut with whipped butternut squash, roasted Brussels sprouts and chipotle pumpkin pesto for $30).

Whatever you order, try to save room for an accompaniment of sweet onion hush puppies ($5.90) which melt in your mouth, or the equally tasty (and decadent) truffled sidewinder fries ($8.90) with white truffle oil, black truffle salt, parmesan, béarnaise and the ubiquitous house smoked ketchup. Again, if you’re willing, these are shareable.

In addition to daily lunch and dinner, Palmer’s offers Sunday brunch and social hour from 4 to 6:30 p.m., when they invite patrons to “sip, savor and socialize” over craft cocktails, half-priced wine and small plates ($5.50). Do try the zesty Kentucky bourbon barrel beer cheese.

In warm weather, patio dining overlooking Lexington Green’s recently refurbished “lake” area offers yet another reason to give Palmer’s a try.

However, that’s just more icing on an already delicious cake.

This story was originally published October 27, 2016 at 2:58 PM with the headline "Palmer’s Fresh Grill doesn’t specialize in cake, but dining there is sweet."