Restaurants News & Trends

Historic, popular downtown restaurant saved. Meet the new owners, what they have planned

When the COVID-19 pandemic shutdown restaurants in Lexington in March, one longtime dining fixture announced that it probably would not be coming back, at least under the present owner.

“After much consideration we’ve decide that we will not be able to re-open Alfalfa once it is safe to do so. We appreciate everyone’s help and support over the past two years,” the owners posted on the restaurant’s Facebook page on March 23.

The restaurant that launched on South Limestone almost 50 years ago as a “hippie” eatery before moving to Main Street was on the verge of closing. Again.

It had been rescued once in 2016 by Bourbon ‘n’ Toulouse Cameron and Kevin Heathcoat, who sold it in 2018 to Amy and Jeb Messer, who also own Lynagh’s, and Joe McGinley, then manager of Cosmic Charlie’s.

But the owners held out one ray of hope: They would be willing to sell it.

“If anyone is interested in carrying on the legacy of Alfalfa and would like to discuss taking over the restaurant message us here or send an email to alfalfalexington@gmail.com. Good luck to everyone on getting through these difficult times.”

Well, Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin saw that as a opportunity too good to pass up.

“When I heard Alfalfa’s was available, I turned to my husband and said ‘we’ve got to buy it,’” she said. That’s just what Tiffany and Wali El-Amin have done.

Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin, left, and Wali El-Amin, right, bought Alfalfa to keep its tradition of local Kentucky-sourced food alive and to continue serving as a community hub.
Tiffany Bellfield El-Amin, left, and Wali El-Amin, right, bought Alfalfa to keep its tradition of local Kentucky-sourced food alive and to continue serving as a community hub. Marcus Dorsey mdorsey@herald-leader.com
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They plan to reopen the restaurant by August.

“It will still be Alfalfa,” she said.

Wali El-Amin said that they want to hear from long-time Alfalfa fans about which items they need to keep. Could the buckwheat pancakes be waffles, for instance?

“Our mission is to provide healthy eating at an inexpensive price,” he said.

Alfalfa Restaurant moved from its longtime home on South Limestone Street to the Downtown Arts Center on Main Street a decade ago.
Alfalfa Restaurant moved from its longtime home on South Limestone Street to the Downtown Arts Center on Main Street a decade ago. Tom Eblen teblen@herald-leader.com
Alfalfa will have new owners but don’t worry about your hoppin’ John; the signature dish is staying on the menu, along with other favorites.
Alfalfa will have new owners but don’t worry about your hoppin’ John; the signature dish is staying on the menu, along with other favorites. Pablo Alcalá palcala@herald-leader.com

Much of the menu probably will remain the same, with an increased emphasis on buying locally sourced farm goods, including from Tiffany’s Ballew Estates in Richmond.

She plans on setting up a small store in the front corner of the dining room, which will have reduced seating capacity anyway, to showcase her herbal teas as well as other Kentucky Proud products. She’s also active in Kentucky’s Black Soil project promoting black farmers.

The popular Alfalfa Restaurant on Main Street in Lexington is changing hands again.
The popular Alfalfa Restaurant on Main Street in Lexington is changing hands again. Pablo Alcalá palcala@herald-leader.com

Tiffany El-Amin has worked for about three years for Community Farm Alliance, where she is now the food justice organizer, building networks between growers and those in need.

She believes Alfalfa, with its “outside the mainstream” background, can be a hub for Lexington connecting people with resources and opportunities.

Alfalfa staff members photographed in 1974, the year after the restaurant opened. Among the owners at the time were, left to right, Marina McCulloch (wearing hat), Leslie Bower (front left in dark shirt), Artie Howard (tallest in back, with beard), Lucia Walls (front right in dark shirt) and Ann “Panny” Hobson (right center).
Alfalfa staff members photographed in 1974, the year after the restaurant opened. Among the owners at the time were, left to right, Marina McCulloch (wearing hat), Leslie Bower (front left in dark shirt), Artie Howard (tallest in back, with beard), Lucia Walls (front right in dark shirt) and Ann “Panny” Hobson (right center). Guy Mendes Herald-Leader

“Love is our religion. We just want people to be in the space and feel the love,” she said. “And food is a big part of that.”

This is their first venture into restaurant ownership, but Wali El-Amin has operated a food truck, Gator’s Goodies, and Tiffany El-Amin has worked in restaurants too. So they know the business from that side as well as from the farm side.

They also plan to bring an Alfalfa food truck out to local festivals and events soon, too.

“I work in local food systems in Kentucky, and on the need for community engagement and hub locations,” she said. “And feeding people is a need.”

A closed sign March 24 at Alfalfa at 141 E Main St. in downtown shorty after the COVID pandemic forced its closure.
A closed sign March 24 at Alfalfa at 141 E Main St. in downtown shorty after the COVID pandemic forced its closure. Ryan C. Hermens rhermens@herald-leader.com

She plans to launch a CSA-style feeding program in June that will target new mothers in need (Tiffany also is a doula), and will work with local farmers to “build on that mission of keeping things healthy and local. That was my priority. We could feed people all day but how is that going to help Kentucky and our economy.”

But their connection to Alfalfa also is personal.

“It was one of our first dates,” she said. “We had the red beans and rice.”

So you’ll always be able to come to Alfalfa’s and get something vegan and vegetarian and find gluten-free options, she said.

Guy Mendes, at right, takes a group picture June 22, 2003 of customers, ex-employees, owners that gather to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Alfalfa’s restaurant on South Limestone in Lexington.
Guy Mendes, at right, takes a group picture June 22, 2003 of customers, ex-employees, owners that gather to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Alfalfa’s restaurant on South Limestone in Lexington. Frank Anderson 2003 Herald-Leader

But she hopes you’ll be able to find something more as well, such as connection.

“When I came in, most of the time it for something else other than the food, but it’s also the local food,” El-Amin said. “People come in, they’re eating, talking, learning about cooperative space and economics. This is just another piece of the puzzle.”

This story was originally published May 29, 2020 at 3:10 PM.

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Janet Patton
Lexington Herald-Leader
Janet Patton covers restaurants, bars, food and bourbon for the Herald-Leader. She is an award-winning business reporter who also has covered agriculture, gambling, horses and hemp. Support my work with a digital subscription
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