Mother Fries, Bacon in a Glass, Oh No! Balls and more: Lexington’s 10 best appetizers

Starters, nibblers, small plates, appetizers, finger foods, light bites. The terms are used interchangeably and no matter what you choose to call them, these shareable savory foods are meant to be eaten before an entrée and are available on the menu of virtually every locally-owned Lexington restaurant.

But some of the first courses found around town are more serious starters. They simply standout above the rest. Shareable experiences of glorious goodness. Something truly special for the table. These are inspired appetizers beyond the standard Buffalo chicken wings, potato skins, onion rings and mozzarella sticks.

I spent the past two weeks eating my way around Lexington on a quest to identify a short list of the most unusual and amazing apps available. I found ten.

My first stop was at OBC Kitchen in Lansdowne Shopping Center for their Bacon in a Glass appetizer ($12). Old Bourbon County Kitchen is part of the Bluegrass Hospitality Group (BHG) restaurant consortium. For a lover of bacon, which I assuredly am, this app is simple and simply sensational. Four large strips of thick-cut bacon served up with a honey bourbon sugar glaze and peanut butter accompaniment. If you have never thought of dipping bacon in peanut butter, do not knock it until you have tried it. It is not your traditional breaded and deep-fried starter. It is unapologetically bacon at its best.

Next stop: J. Render’s Southern Table & Bar on Beaumont Centre Circle. J. Render’s is known for its smoked meats. There I tried the Oh No! Balls appetizer ($10.99), a variation of their “Oh No You Didn’t” Grilled Cheese featuring pulled pork in a sweet BBQ sauce combined with smoked macaroni and cheese and deep fried to a golden brown. Full-flavored inside with a crunchy outside, this app offers a twist on traditional BBQ that is certain to also appeal to mac and cheese lovers.

Lexington Diner on Lane Allen Road was my next destination. Chef and American TV personality Alton Brown, referring to Lexington Diner’s Kentucky Nachos, ($11) once noted in a Facebook post, “I’ve never done crack, but I imagine it’s like this.” Who am I to disagree with such lofty praise?

The Kentucky Nachos are available with house made kettle potato chips or tortilla chips and topped with cheddar cheese, Country Boy’s chili, bacon, tomatoes, salsa, guacamole and sour cream, these nachos are definitely a step above. Hearty and delicious bite after bite and hard to beat. Enough to feed two to four people.

Deviled eggs are a staple at summer cookouts, potluck gatherings and holiday get-togethers. The Chop House Steakhouse’s Deviled Eggs with Brown Sugar Bacon appetizer ($9) are top shelf and a step above everyday deviled eggs. It’s true…bacon makes everything better. If you are looking for a tasty and light starter before your entrée, this app is the way to go.

Azur Restaurant & Patio on Lakecrest Circle was my next destination. Azur’s signature Lobster Crêpes appetizer is, in a word, superb ($13). Lobster, chive and cream stuffed crêpes with a tropical guava sauce and local sugar snap pea shoots — this light and airy blend is both satisfying and delightfully a bit decadent. An appetizer that automatically makes any occasion seem like a special occasion. Order this one when you want to feel like you are splurging a little.

Another member of the Bluegrass Hospitality Group of restaurants is Lexington’s ever-popular Malone’s. With three Lexington locations, Malone’s is known for its U.S.D.A. Prime Beef. But it was not beef that I was after upon my recent visit. It was instead their Aqua Crab Rangoon Roll ($12). Aqua Sushi is available at each of the Malone’s, Harry’s and Drake’s locations. It is a delightfully delicious blend of cream cheese, crab, scallions and sushi rice, tempura-fried, topped with teriyaki and drizzled with a sweet chili sauce. If you are in the mood for sushi for a starter, the Aqua Crab Rangoon Roll appetizer at Malone’s should be on your dining radar. One of the best sushi rolls I’ve had recently.

Sedona Taphouse on Palomar Centre Drive was next up on my trail of exemplary apps. Offering Southwest-inspired cuisine, Sedona Taphouse’s Desert Fire Jalapeños are hot and spicy ($7.90). Stuffed with four different cheeses, bacon-wrapped, red peppers, and a chilled lime cilantro sauce. Bold and zesty flavors that will tantalize your tastebuds. If you like your appetizer to have a little kick, the Desert Fire Jalapeños are for you.

Lexington’s oldest restaurant, Columbia’s Steakhouse, offers one of the city’s most unusual appetizers — the only Lexington restaurant in fact to do so, Lamb Fries ($8.99). Available at either of Columbia’s dine-in locations. It is a mainstay of the menu; a favorite app of many regular customers. For those unfamiliar with the dish, it is not for the squeamish. It is lamb testicles, sliced and fried in batter until golden-crispy and served with a white cream gravy — and I must admit, the taste is not bad. The texture has been described as almost identical to that of a succulent scallop. If you are brave enough to sample this exotic appetizer, Columbia’s is the place for you.

My next to last stop was at Bear & the Butcher on Euclid Avenue in the Chevy Chase neighborhood. Their Butcher’s Board appetizer ($13) is comprised of the current house-made sausage, house pickled vegetables, pimento cheese, various mustards, and a Bavarian pretzel. Beer cheese is available for an upcharge and recommended for dipping the pretzel. More than enough to share and the sausage is made from meat butchered onsite. It is certainly not your run-of-the-mill appetizer and worth checking out.

To round out my appetizers adventure, I traveled down Old Richmond Road to Proud Mary BBQ, Lexington’s only riverfront restaurant, featuring Southern seafood and BBQ fare. Proud Mary BBQ’s Mother Fries appetizer is massive ($13). Served with four forks and rightfully so. It is a mountain of cheese fries generously covered in a thick brisket debris gravy. Named after New Orleans, Louisiana’s famous Mother’s Restaurant, you will not go hungry after ordering this enormous and filling appetizer.

While this list is by no means a complete list of the most out of the ordinary first courses available at Lexington restaurants, the next time you are looking for appetizers beyond the mundane, these are definitely ten topnotch options.

This story was originally published October 28, 2020 at 6:00 AM.