Smashed burgers, German sausages: First look at new eatery inside a bagel shop

Long regarded as a small and artsy college town, Berea has lacked a hip evening hangout.

Nightjar, inside the Native Bagel Company at 436 Chestnut St, looks to change that. According to owner Katie Startzman, the restaurant and bar will serve Pennsylvania Dutch German-inspired sausages, burgers, soft pretzels and more, with all meats locally sourced from the Berea College Farm.

With its official opening on Nov. 19, I visited the bagel shop turned restaurant for a first-bite review.

Those familiar with Native Bagel will feel right at home inside Nightjar, which features much of the same look — white and stone walls lined with hanging plants and lights across high ceilings.

The newly installed bar, named for a nocturnal bird, is on the building’s left side.

My party started off our visit with two “early birds,” the Smoked Deviled Eggs (five Berea College Farm egg halves smoked, deviled and topped with crumbled bacon), $6; and Sauerkraut Fritters (mild sauerkraut bundled with Swiss cheese and speckwurst sausage that’s served with honey mustard), $7. Both were delicious and generously portioned enough that my father didn’t worry about ordering an entree. His only complaint was with the fritters, which he said could’ve used more honey mustard dipping sauce on the side.

The other two appetizers on the menu are a Soft Pretzel (made fresh daily and served with honey mustard or Obatzda — a German cheese spread), $6; and Currywurst (hand-cut fries topped with a griddled brat curry tomato sauce and mayo), $9.

While my father enjoyed his appetizers, I chowed down on the Speckwurst, a behemoth smoked sausage made with bacon and pork, $11. Full of rich smoky flavors, the sausage paired perfectly with the whole grain mustard it was topped with and the toasted bun it sat on. It also came with fries, which were seasoned well but could have been a bit warmer, and a German slaw.

Other sausages available include a traditional Bratwurst and Spicy Hungarian (a smoked paprika, caraway, and garlic-flavored pork sausage), both $11.

Nightjar also serves up four signature burgers ranging from the Oklahoma Cheeseburger (a 6-ounce double patty fried with shaved onions and topped with American cheese), $11; to the Artichoke Burger (an artichoke chickpea fritter topped with onion, lettuce and remoulade), $10. A Classic Cheeseburger (a 6 oz double-patty topped with American cheese, lettuce, onion and mayo), $12; and a Baby Burger (a 3-ounce patty topped with American cheese, lettuce, onion and mayo), $9; round out the menu.

All burgers are cooked “smashed,” a method that improves the meat’s contact with the heat source and is said to intensify flavors. According to Startzman, later this winter the restaurant will start incorporating weekly burger specials into the menu, drawing inspiration from regional burger styles around the United States. She also hinted at seasonal entrees that fully utilize the local produce available and showcase the creativity of Nightjar’s chefs.

While waiting on our food my father and I also each sipped on a Night Hawk, $9; one of the bar’s seven signature cocktails. A bourbon drink mixed with honey, rosemary and lemon, the Night Hawk had a smooth, sweet and citrusy flavor. I’m not a big beer or liquor drinker, but the Night Hawk is a cocktail that I could drink over and over.

Nightjar’s remaining six cocktails are the Whip-Poor-Will (gin, pear, sage, lemon and egg white), $9; Chuck Will’s Widow (rye whiskey, pineapple rum, cherry, demerara and angostura bitters), $9; the Chimney Swift (vodka, coconut, chai, vanilla, lime, cinnamon and burlesque bitters), $9; the Crowned Heron (tequila, lime, curry, grapefruit and seltzer water), $9; the Mocking Bird (lillet rose, lemon, prosecco and seltzer water), $7; and the Aperol Spritz (aperol, prosecco and seltzer water), $7.

Also available are three wines — Gruner Veltliner (light white), $10 for a glass or $38 for the bottle; Dogajolo (tuscan red), $9/$36; and Millesimato Extra Dry (prosecco), $10/$38. Four beers are also available: Bitburger Premium Pilsner, $6; Weihenstephan Hefewiess, $6; Ace Pineapple Cider, $5; and Left Hand Brewing’s Peanut Butter Milk Stout, $6.

Rounding out Nightjar’s opening day menu are two salads, the Wedge (a lettuce wedge topped with ranch or blue cheese dressing, diced crunchy veggies and everything bagel seed crumbles), $8; and the vegetarian Fall Salad (arugula, roasted sweet potato, blue cheese crumbles, pomegranate and candied pumpkin seeds tossed in maple vinaigrette), $9.

Nightjar

Where: 436 Chestnut St., Berea

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, closed Sunday-Tuesday

Online: Facebook.com/NightjarBerea