Restaurants News & Trends

Kentucky hyperlocal farm-to-table restaurant menu often changes with daily delivery

When it comes in the door, it goes on the menu.

Those pea shoots garnishing the mushroom toast were picked from a garden bed across the street a few hours ago. That golden yolk atop the croque madame might’ve come a hen less than a mile away. Beef coming from a farm down the road and mushrooms from Berea. Last summer, some locals would simply drop off produce.

“I just try and stay on my toes,” said Jon Baugh, the chef at Solidago — a Garrard County farm-to-table restaurant that transforms hyperlocal ingredients into elevated plates. “Whatever I can get I just try and get it on the menu as quick as possible.”

The menu is written in chalk above the bar because it can change daily, depending on what’s in season and what ingredients are available, Baugh said. In the spring, customers could expect asparagus, mushrooms, strawberries and various garlics and onions to be available.

“Salads tend to change quite a bit seasonally, obviously, because lettuces and all those ingredients change very seasonally,” said Baugh, who noted that it’s often easier to get fresh, local meat than produce.

Mushroom toast from Chef Jon Baugh at Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick. Solidago has a seasonal menu that changes as ingredients are available.
Mushroom toast from Chef Jon Baugh at Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick. Solidago has a seasonal menu that changes as ingredients are available. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
A Brussels sprout Caesar salad and lemonade at Solidago, a farm-to-table restaurant in Garrard County.
A Brussels sprout Caesar salad and lemonade at Solidago, a farm-to-table restaurant in Garrard County. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
Chef Jon Baugh checks on Solidago’s small garden behind the restaurant in Paint Lick. “Whatever I can get I just try and get it on the menu as quick as possible.”
Chef Jon Baugh checks on Solidago’s small garden behind the restaurant in Paint Lick. “Whatever I can get I just try and get it on the menu as quick as possible.” Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com

Speaking to Solidago’s local mission, the restaurant’s name is the scientific name for goldenrod, Kentucky’s state flower. The restaurant is located in Paint Lick, a historic village along a picturesque creek nestled among green, rolling hills about 45 minutes south of Lexington on I-75. The restaurant posts a picture of the day’s menu on its Facebook and Instagram pages for those looking to find out what’s available before the drive. And starting June 19, the restaurant will be changing hours to include regular dinner service.

Despite the changing options, the menu does have some continuity. The entrees tend to stay under $20. Soup beans ($12) and a cheeseburger ($13) will always be available. Aside from that, Baugh said trout tends to stay on the menu and anytime he does some form of grits — like paired with catfish or pork — it gets quickly eaten.

Solidago chef Jon Baugh often uses grits on entrees, like this catfish and grits.
Solidago chef Jon Baugh often uses grits on entrees, like this catfish and grits. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
Lamb Ragú at Solidago restaurant whose menu changes depending on what local ingredients are available.
Lamb Ragú at Solidago restaurant whose menu changes depending on what local ingredients are available. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
Croque Madame from Solidago restaurant.
Croque Madame from Solidago restaurant. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com

From Michelin-star kitchens to Paint Lick

A multi-state culinary career has taken Baugh, a Lexington native, from Michelin-star kitchens to more recently helping run Ouita Michel’s Holly Hill Inn until an intriguing possibility came along.

The opportunity at Solidago came after he met Mark Gumbert, the business and building owner who had planned to open a farm-to-table restaurant in the space. Gumbert also owns a neighboring environmental consulting company, the nearby Denny House Bed and Breakfast — where some of the restaurants’ ingredients are grown.

Chef Jon Baugh worked in Michelin-star kitchens before coming home to Kentucky to open Solidago.
Chef Jon Baugh worked in Michelin-star kitchens before coming home to Kentucky to open Solidago. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
A lemon chess bar from Chef Jon Baugh at Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick, Ky.
A lemon chess bar from Chef Jon Baugh at Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick, Ky. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com

After hearing Gumbert’s vision, Baugh said he was sold and the restaurant opened a year ago.

“After working in the industry for so many years, I think I’d really decided that I just really wanted to cook food for normal people and just cook really good honest food,” Baugh said. “And that’s what I’m trying to do.”

Alcohol sales allowed: Garrard County is now moist

For much of the restaurant’s existence, the one thing you couldn’t get at Solidago was an alcoholic drink but that may soon change.

Paint Lick was dry, but in May the local community voted to allow alcohol sales in the historic village. Garrard County is considered “moist” as aside from the area around Paint Lick alcohol can only purchased in Lancaster, the county seat.

“It’s really hard to make it profitable here without alcohol,” Baugh said before the May election. “So we’re really hoping the community will show out.”

Patrons sit at the bar in Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick, Ky., Wednesday, April 12, 2023.
Patrons sit at the bar in Solidago restaurant in Paint Lick, Ky., Wednesday, April 12, 2023. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com
Solidago has been open in Paint Lick for a year and is now serving dinner in addition to lunch.
Solidago has been open in Paint Lick for a year and is now serving dinner in addition to lunch. Silas Walker swalker@herald-leader.com

Solidago

Where: 467 Main St, Paint Lick

Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday; Dinner, 5:30 p.m.-8:30 p.m Friday-Saturday

Contact: (859) 925-2000

Online: solidagoky.com

This story was originally published June 20, 2023 at 6:00 AM.

Rick Childress
Lexington Herald-Leader
Rick Childress covers Eastern Kentucky for the Herald-Leader. The Lexington native and University of Kentucky graduate first joined the paper in 2016 as an agate desk clerk in the sports section and in 2020 covered higher education during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. He spent much of 2021 covering news and sports for the Klamath Falls Herald and News in rural southern Oregon before returning to Kentucky in 2022.
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