Denver diner with "good, honest food" names itself for Kentuckian Wendell Berry

The fame of Kentucky writer and farmer Wendell Berry goes a long way. And not just in the literary world.

Now it's in use by the owners of a Denver cafe with menu items ranging from pancakes to a Bloody Mary loaded with pork belly.

In fact, this a new restaurant bears Wendell Berry's name.

Wendell's, which opened in early May, describes itself like this: "Wendell's is a contemporary diner focused on serving the breakfast, brunch, and lunch needs of the Berkeley neighborhood. Good, honest food, seven days a week."

The new restaurant has been profiled on the website Eater. Already it has received very positive reviews on Yelp.

Berry's philosophy appeals to Kade Gianinetti , one of the founders of Wendell's, who likes Berry's writings about local food and saving the farm economy.

Writing in the Denver publication Westword, Mark Antonation said this about the restaurant, "So you'll be able to get chicken-fried steak and avocado toast under one roof. "

Diners can also get poutine, lox rillettes and, on the children's menu, a "Wendell Jr." consisting of one egg, choice of meat, choice of toast and including seasonal fruit, seasonal veggies and sparkling water as a drink option.

Gianinetti, who is a partner in two other restaurants and a coffee roastery, said that kids are important as adults, so "they should have as many options." And, he said, he uses Berry principles in all his businesses.

Berry writes about "the right way to look at agriculture. ... It should be sustainable, and it should be good for the ecosystem and environment, but also for yourself," Gianinetti said.

"It's really a cornerstone in our restaurant, our philosophy, how we treat our people," Gianinetti said, adding he doesn't just read Berry for his outlook on agriculture. He also reads Berry's poetry.

Mary Berry, Wendell Berry's daughter and an executive at the Berry Center in New Castle, said that she was surprised to learn of a restaurant named after her father. Although many Lexington-area chefs are fans of Berry's school of thought, there isn't a Wendell's in Kentucky.

All Lexington Vinaigrette Salad Kitchen locations and the Good Food Coop has a Wendell Berry quote on its wall: "Eating is an agricultural act."

The Minnesota Food Association also uses the same sentence in its mission statement.

Having a restaurant named for Berry ""is kind of exciting, I'll be waiting to hear more," said Berry's daughter.

This story was originally published May 17, 2018 at 3:55 PM with the headline "Denver diner with "good, honest food" names itself for Kentuckian Wendell Berry."