Bourbon & Bars

Lexington brewery to produce a spirit that has never been made for Kentucky market

Kentucky is well-known for bourbon. And the state has a thriving craft beer industry. But now a new spirit is moving in, one that will put Kentucky in rare company.

Brandon Floan, who is one of the brewers at Ethereal Brewing, and Justin LeVaughn, who also is at Ethereal, have teamed up with Joe Rice to open The Void Sake Co., Kentucky’s first sake brewery.

The name The Void is a nod to writer H.P. Lovecraft; all three are fans of cosmic horror as well as craft beer. In fact, Floan thinks they will be the only commercial company to come at it from a craft beer background.

According to the Sake Brewers Association of North America, there are only about 20 commercial brewers in the U.S. that make sake, an ancient fermented drink that originated in Japan.

Although it is often called a rice wine, it’s actually made more like beer, according to Floan.

He said that it was beer that brought him to sake in the first place.

A sample batch of sake from The Void Sake Co. poured into shot glasses, February 3, 2021.
A sample batch of sake from The Void Sake Co. poured into shot glasses, February 3, 2021. Marcus Dorsey mdorsey@herald-leader.com

“A few years back, we did a Japanese beer-inspired event and that was my first experience with koji, the mold you use to make sake,” Floan said. “From there we started making small batches of sake on the side. We’re all fans of fermentation in all its forms. ... It’s kind of interesting. It’s rice, water, koji and yeast.”

Floan said that they expect to open the brewery and begin serving by the end of February. Sake takes about a month to make, he said.

The Void Sake head brewer Justin LeVaughn, right, helps separate rice used in the production of Sake. Jan. 28, 2021.
The Void Sake head brewer Justin LeVaughn, right, helps separate rice used in the production of Sake. Jan. 28, 2021. Marcus Dorsey mdorsey@herald-leader.com

“We’re excited to explain and we’re definitely going to have tours and nerd out about the process,” he said.

He said that while there isn’t a huge demand for sake at the moment, “it’s growing in the last decade by double digits.”

From left to right: Joe Rice, Brandon Floan, and Justin LeVaughn teamed up to form The Void Sake Co. to produce locally made sake. They hope to begin making sake later this month.
From left to right: Joe Rice, Brandon Floan, and Justin LeVaughn teamed up to form The Void Sake Co. to produce locally made sake. They hope to begin making sake later this month. Marcus Dorsey mdorsey@herald-leader.com

And Central Kentucky, which is home to a Toyota plant in Georgetown as well as automotive parts suppliers, has a significant Japanese population and many restaurants that the brewery hopes to sell to.

Several different styles of their own sake as well as more traditional version will be available at the brewery’s taproom.

Our first steps. Justin is washing the rice! Even though we use is highly polished rice (70% seimai-buai* at minimum), we still have to wash and dry it before throwing it into our steamer.Seimai-buai = the mill or polish rate of the rice, which is the amount of rice remaining.#surrendertothevoid #ricelife #kanpai

Posted by The Void Sake Company on Saturday, January 30, 2021

The Void Sake Co.

Where: 949 National Ave., Suite 190

Phone: 859-567-9423

Open: Expect to open the taproom by the end of February

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Janet Patton
Lexington Herald-Leader
Janet Patton covers restaurants, bars, food and bourbon for the Herald-Leader. She is an award-winning business reporter who also has covered agriculture, gambling, horses and hemp. Support my work with a digital subscription
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