Bourbon & Bars

Relive ‘Bourbon Pompeii’ and other early KY distilleries with whiskey archaeologist

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  • Nick Laracuente talks bourbon archaeology, including the 'Bourbon Pompeii' site.
  • Volunteer-led excavations a decade ago uncovered distillery sites and early distilling artifacts.
  • Laracuente shares findings on Sept. 20 during Bourbon and Archaeology Month.

The man known as Kentucky’s “bourbon archaeologist” has a confession to make: When he started this gig, he wasn’t even into whiskey.

“I had a little bit of a little bit of bourbon in undergrad and grad school, but I definitely was not any kind of bourbon connoisseur,” said Nick Laracuente, best known for his work on Buffalo Trace’s “Bourbon Pompeii” site.

Bourbon archaeologist Nick Laracuente walked along an unearthed fermentation tank in 2016 at the remains of an old distillery found inside the floor of a building at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. The site will be preserved for future tours as a kind of “bourbon Pompeii,” Laracuente said.
Bourbon archaeologist Nick Laracuente walked along an unearthed fermentation tank in 2016 at the remains of an old distillery found inside the floor of a building at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. The site will be preserved for future tours as a kind of “bourbon Pompeii,” Laracuente said. Charles Bertram cbertram@herald-leader.com
Bourbon archaeologist and Sazerac lead archivist Nick Laracuente will speak about his work unearthing Bourbon Pompeii as well as artifacts from Revolutionary War hero Jack Jouett’s Woodford County distillery. The discussion on Sept. 20, sponsored by the Jack Jouett House Historic Site in Versailles, is free and open to the public.
Bourbon archaeologist and Sazerac lead archivist Nick Laracuente will speak about his work unearthing Bourbon Pompeii as well as artifacts from Revolutionary War hero Jack Jouett’s Woodford County distillery. The discussion on Sept. 20, sponsored by the Jack Jouett House Historic Site in Versailles, is free and open to the public. Provided

In 2008, Laracuente was a University of Kentucky doctoral candidate studying coastal Spanish mission settlements when he noticed the uptick in bourbon tourism happening around him and got interested in historic distilleries.

He credits a book by expert Chet Zoeller, who catalogued all of the state’s official distilleries, plus a survey of the Daniel Boone National Forest that estimated there were once at least 460 “unofficial” (read: moonshine) distilling sites in Kentucky, piquing his interest. Laracuente put together a theory on how to distinguish a distillery from other types of buildings based solely on potential archaeological findings.

This idea caught the attention of Janice Clark, director of the Jack Jouett House Historic Site in Versailles. Clark wondered if Laracuente would be interested in seeing documents relating to the Revolutionary War hero’s Woodford County distillery.

Out of that grew an innovative award-winning all-volunteer multi-year project a decade ago: Hundreds of locals, from age 6 to 70 came out and helped excavate around the distillery site, which they were able to locate using legal records.

The Jack Jouett House was honored at the 38th annual Ida Lee Willis Memorial Foundation Historic Preservation Awards with a Service to Preservation Award. Pictured are former Jack Jouett House executive director Janice Clark and archaeology project director Nick Laracuente.
The Jack Jouett House was honored at the 38th annual Ida Lee Willis Memorial Foundation Historic Preservation Awards with a Service to Preservation Award. Pictured are former Jack Jouett House executive director Janice Clark and archaeology project director Nick Laracuente. Photo provided

“We had politicians, teachers, state workers, retirees,” Laracuente said. “It was just across political divides, age divides, wealth, demographics, just people came in and got into it. ... It was a lot of fun. ... We dug something like 170 holes in the ground ... Think about a big game of Battleship. Basically, you have your hits and misses, and the hits are your artifacts.”

Jack Jouett Archaeology Project team members celebrated the end of the 2014 season with a reception, program and exhibit at the Jack Jouett House Historic Site. This was the public's first opportunity to view artifacts recovered in excavations at Jack Jouett's distillery and grist mill. Project director Nick Laracuente answered questions about items that reflect personal use by long-ago residents or workers at the site.
Jack Jouett Archaeology Project team members celebrated the end of the 2014 season with a reception, program and exhibit at the Jack Jouett House Historic Site. This was the public's first opportunity to view artifacts recovered in excavations at Jack Jouett's distillery and grist mill. Project director Nick Laracuente answered questions about items that reflect personal use by long-ago residents or workers at the site.
Volunteers Jack Wright, left, of Warsaw and Gail Combs of Versailles sifted for artifacts from an archaeological site in southern  Woodford County. The area is thought to be the early 19th-century site of Revolutionary War hero Jack Jouett's mill and distillery.
Volunteers Jack Wright, left, of Warsaw and Gail Combs of Versailles sifted for artifacts from an archaeological site in southern Woodford County. The area is thought to be the early 19th-century site of Revolutionary War hero Jack Jouett's mill and distillery. Lexington Herald-Leader

Behind the distillery site, he said, they found lots of interesting items, including a stoneware jug of the type used for holding alcoholic spirits in the late 1700s before the use of barrels had been established.

On Sept. 20, Laracuente will speak about the Jouett distillery dig, as well as his subsequent work unearthing “Bourbon Pompeii” — the long-buried remnants of the 1873 O.F.C. Distillery built by legendary distiller Col. E.H. Taylor.

Gail Combs held a remnant of a small pistol that was found on property once owned by Jouett in Woodford County.
Gail Combs held a remnant of a small pistol that was found on property once owned by Jouett in Woodford County. Lexington Herald-Leader
The dig was in a remote spot in  southern Woodford County;  workers walked up a dry creekbed to get there.
The dig was in a remote spot in southern Woodford County; workers walked up a dry creekbed to get there. Lexington Herald-Leader

Now the lead archivist for Sazerac, Laracuente also will discuss what he’s uncovered combing through 400,000 artifacts related to the company’s spirits brands, including their recently acquired Irish distillery.

A group visiting Buffalo Trace to select a barrel of bourbon for a private bottling toured the Bourbon Pompeii ruins. Catwalks have been installed so that people can peer down into the tanks and vats used to make bourbon more than 100 years ago.
A group visiting Buffalo Trace to select a barrel of bourbon for a private bottling toured the Bourbon Pompeii ruins. Catwalks have been installed so that people can peer down into the tanks and vats used to make bourbon more than 100 years ago. Charles Bertram cbertram@herald-leader.com
A drawing of the distilling complex has been installed on a wall at the Bourbon Pompeii at Buffalo Trace. The building is shown in the historic illustration on the right, with smoking smokestacks, along the Kentucky River.
A drawing of the distilling complex has been installed on a wall at the Bourbon Pompeii at Buffalo Trace. The building is shown in the historic illustration on the right, with smoking smokestacks, along the Kentucky River. Charles Bertram cbertram@herald-leader.com

The event, held in recognition of Bourbon Heritage Month and Kentucky Archaeology Month, is sponsored by the Jack Jouett House, which recently renovated its visitors center and is adding new exhibits.

Could this lead to more explorations on site? Possibly.

“I think they want to remind people what the Jack Jouett House is capable of and what we did there,” Laracuente said. “And that it’s got a very strong connection to bourbon.”

Speaking of bourbon, Laracuente has remedied his education on whiskey. He began a journal of what he sampled: “I got up to around 430 bourbon before I stopped keeping track,” he said.

“You can’t really do anything related to the field without also being conversant in tasting and pairing and palette and mouth feel and what the different brands are, right?”

Digging for Amber Gold: Bourbon Archaeology

When: Sept. 20 at 2 p.m.

Where: Three Seasons Building in the District, 105 Rose Hill Ave, Versailles

Tickets: Free

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Janet Patton
Lexington Herald-Leader
Janet Patton covers restaurants, bars, food and bourbon for the Herald-Leader. She is an award-winning business reporter who also has covered agriculture, gambling, horses and hemp. Support my work with a digital subscription
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