‘Everyone is family:’ Where to find homestyle meals with local produce in Paris

Bourbon County has not ignored the 21st century but it certainly hasn’t bowed to it.

Although not frozen in time by any means, it retains the architecture and rural landscape that for many epitomize the Bluegrass region.

There are horse farms, limestone structures, a stunning historic courthouse, a downtown defined by its 19th and early 20th century buildings and a meeting house built before Kentucky was a state.

There’s even a drive-in movie theatre and the last remaining location of the once-popular Jerry’s restaurant franchise. But there are also farms boasting organic produce and meats grown without antibiotics or hormones, a wonderful orchard where generations have picked apples and other fruit, craft breweries and restaurants that offer macchiatos and chai tea.

Anchored by its beautiful county seat, Paris, Bourbon County (named for a French royal line, not the whiskey which, in turn, is named for the county) is a great place to spend a day, or more, exploring what it has to offer.

I began my tour at Lil’s Coffee House, which occupies the soda fountain section of the former J.J. Newberry five and dime on Main Street. A truly local place with a modern flair — on the day I was there the news was full of President Biden’s meeting with Russian President Vladimir Putin but the two televisions at Lil’s were tuned to a horse racing channel.

At lunch that day, everyone seemed to be living out the café’s motto, “everyone is family.” Servers chatted with regulars, there were discussions of how an operation had gone, where kids were in school and who would be home for the summer. There are a lot of tempting items on the regular menu but the season tomato pies were on the counter and I couldn’t resist. Made with local tomatoes and basil, my server said, from someone down the street, the pie was a slice of joy. I had fruit on the side and, rather than the syrupy, canned mix you too often get, it was a couple of slices of watermelon and grapes on the stem. Very nice.

Not able to face another meal for a while I took off for the Cane Ridge Meeting House, built of blue ash logs and oak and chestnut beams in 1791. It is believed to be one of the largest one-room log structures remaining in the country. You’ve got to stop, get out of your car or off your bicycle to see the original building because, according to the web site, “To protect it from weather, vermin, and woodpeckers, in 1957 a golden limestone superstructure (was built) around the log church.” But it’s well worth the effort and will also give you a chance to walk around the beautiful grounds, see the old, old tombstones and learn what a ledger stone is.

One thing explained to me early in my time in the Bluegrass is that grass is, in fact, the crop here and different things are grown on the that grass. Thoroughbred horses are, of course, the best know of those crops around here but at least two farms in Bourbon County chose to grow other animals. Six Ridges Farm and Pope Family Farms both feature beef raised on their grasslands without use of antibiotics, steroids or hormones. Each has other products as well (pork, poultry and eggs at Six Ridges, eggs and farm produce at Pope) and it’s worth a visit to check them out and learn more about humane and sustainable meat-raising practices.

Back in town, I had to stop at the Jerry’s which, since 1961, has been keeping Parisians well fed on American staples like patty melts, country fried steak and cheese fries. It was mid-afternoon so I opted for a cup of coffee and a small (don’t get the regular unless you’re sharing) hot fudge cake. It was very rich and very good. There’s a reason this Jerry’s has survived.

Each Central Kentucky town has several Mexican restaurants and it is always a challenge to decide which on to try. Two locals recommended Perico’s and I got takeout dinner (no way I could eat again so soon after that cake!) of beef flautas and camarones al mojo de ajo, both of which were tasty and made with quality ingredients. I also sampled the guacamole, which featured actual slices of avocado, so you know you aren’t just getting a hint with cheaper filler.

Some places that were recommended and intriguing for this dining guide and list but I didn’t get a chance to try:

Cilantro, a newer entrant in the Mexican category featuring street tacos, fajitas, burrito bowls and more. They have an average online rating of 4.9 stars;

Trackside, a restaurant and Bourbon bar at the former train depot, which proclaims it offers “comfortable home style Kentucky kitchen fare (hot browns, fried chicken) with reasonable prices and fresh local produce whenever possible.” My sources say it has quickly become a local favorite.

Rose and Thorne Pub, which describes itself as “an apothecary of food and drink to soothe the inner beast.” Your beast might respond to a fishbowl cocktail or a bucket of beer paired with some unusual bar food like olive tapenade or tzatziki dip, a Ruth BLT Ginsberg or Freda Kahlo Grande.

Paradise Café, an Asian fusion restaurant downtown, has a loyal following for its standards like sweet and sour chicken and shrimp and green pepper steak.

There are many other options but this is just a nod to some of what Paris had to offer.

A couple of other notes:

There is a permanent indoor farmer’s market downtown, which is worth a visit. I was sorry that I didn’t happen to get there on one of the days the outdoor vendors where offering their goods (Tuesday 4-6 p.m. and Saturday 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.)

And, I can never leave a story about food in Bourbon County without mentioning Reed Valley Orchard where apples and other fruit are available to pick or buy and the country store offers incomparable hand held pies are available in apple, blueberry, peach and blackberry along with fruit smoothies from very local products and many other delights. Open limited days and hours so check the website before you make the journey.

This story was originally published August 11, 2021 at 6:00 AM.