Lexington’s trees help limit dangerous heat. How to get a free sapling for your yard
You might already know Lexington’s poorest and most diverse neighborhoods also happen to be the hottest parts of the city, experiencing extreme temperatures for longer, largely because those areas don’t have enough trees.
In these areas, the hottest days can be 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the city as a whole, 2022 data from Tree Equity Score shows. Research has shown expanded tree cover can help mitigate the urban heat island effect and dramatically cut premature deaths due to heat.
While Lexington’s government does recognize the disparity and has several programs aimed at expanding and conserving the urban tree canopy, its direct planting efforts are largely limited to public property.
Given that more than 70% of Fayette County’s plantable space is private property, closing Lexington’s tree gap for good will ultimately come down to the work of everyday residents. Luckily, a local nonprofit wants to help.
Saturday, Oct. 5, Trees Lexington plans to give away more than 300 trees ready for planting this fall.
“Our goal with this event is to provide access to trees to anyone in Lexington,” Amy Steele, operations manager at Tree Lexington, wrote the Herald-Leader in an email.
Trees Lexington offers the trees twice a year every spring and fall, the best times to plant them.
“We have arborists and other tree experts on site to assist people with selecting the right tree for the right place. We also provide planting and mulching instructions,” Steele said.
“Many trees are improperly planted and mulched, which leads to early demise. In the spring we were able to have a load of mulch on site for those adopting trees to take home for free as well,” which Trees Lexington plans to do again this weekend, according to Steele.
The event will run throughout the day Saturday, and Trees Lexington is encouraging participants to RSVP.
Tips for planting trees in Kentucky
As explained by Kentucky’s Energy and Environment Cabinet, the ideal time of year to plant a tree is during its dormant season, specifically after leaf drop in the fall and before buds break open in the spring.
Prior to planting, you should also know as much as possible about the kind of tree you’re working with and think about how you want to use it. What type of soil does it thrive in? How much light does it need? Are you planting the tree for aesthetics, shade, privacy, as a windbreak or as habitat for wildlife?
Perhaps the most important factor to consider is whether you have space for the fully grown tree. Know how big the tree can get, and choose a spot accordingly.
Steps for planting balled or burlapped trees include, according to Kentucky’s Energy and Environment Cabinet:
Dig a shallow, but broad hole to the depth of the root ball and three times the diameter of the ball. When you place the tree, hold the ball, not the trunk.
Balance the tree making sure it is standing straight up and at the correct height. The tree should be planted at the same depth it was growing in the nursery.
Remove the materials covering the root ball. That could be removing the top portion of the wire basket or peeling back the top portion of the natural burlap material. Remove any and all plastic. Plastic burlap and twine won’t break down in the soil and will strangle the tree, killing it.
Fill the hole with about one-third of the soil you just dug and gently pack it around the root ball. Continue filling in the rest of the hole. It’s very important to then water the soil to let it settle and remove any air pockets. Skip adding fertilizer for the first year.
Prune away any dead or broken branches, but otherwise leave the tree be.
Remove the tree wrap that was used for shipping the tree.
Consider staking the tree. If properly placed and planted, it should not need staking for support. If staking is necessary, make sure to remove the stakes at the end of the first year. Don’t let the stakes or twine rub the tree, causing wounds that opportunistic insects will invade.
Mulch properly. When adding mulch, make sure not to pile it around the base of the tree’s trunk. That will trap heat and moisture, creating the opportunity for rot.
Keep up the watering routine. The newly planted tree should get at least 1 inch of water every week for the first year. You can cut back to two weeks during the second year. Keep your garden hose handy.
Plant bare-root trees as soon as possible to keep their roots from drying out. If you can’t plant the tree right away, keep its roots moist. Otherwise, the steps for planting include:
Unpack the tree and let it soak in water for as long as three to six hours. Don’t plant with the packing material attached to the roots, and don’t allow the roots to dry out.
Dig a wide hole so the roots have room to spread out. Clear away any grass within a 3-foot radius of the tree. Turn the soil in that area to help support the tree’s root growth.
Plant the tree at the same depth it stood at the nursery. Don’t crowd the roots. Partially fill the hole and firm the soil around the lower roots. Skip adding fertilizers or peat moss.
Add in the remaining soil. Pack it firmly, but not tightly, with your heel. Make a berm, a raised bank, around the tree to help it retain water. Water generously.
Allow the water to soak in and place 2 inches of protective mulch in an area of 3 feet around the base of the tree, not touching the trunk.
Give it at least 1 inch of water every week.
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