Is whiskey fungus harmful to your health? Here’s what the bourbon industry says
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Whiskey fungus
The booming $9 billion Kentucky bourbon industry has created a boom in something else: Whiskey fungus.
Neighbors of proposed bourbon rickhouses in at least three counties — Henry, Franklin and Anderson — have been fighting plans to build warehouse campuses that they fear will inundate their homes, cars, gardens, playgrounds and property with the black mold-like growth.
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Potential neighbors of new Kentucky bourbon barrel warehouse campuses are concerned about the impact that whiskey fungus could have on their homes, their property and possibly their health.
No major Kentucky distiller would allow an interview on the subject for this story. Buffalo Trace, which is planning expansions in two counties, declined to comment directly. Other distillers, including Brown-Forman and Heaven Hill, which have been sued over whiskey fungus, either declined or did not respond to requests for comment.
They maintain that the fungus isn’t harmful. Buffalo Trace pointed to a fact sheet prepared by the Indiana State Department of Health on the issue.
“Baudoinia compniacensis, also known as Distillery Fungus, Whiskey Fungus, and Warehouse Staining Fungus, is a black fungus that is velvety or crust-like and can reach 1-2 cm in thickness. While it is black in color, this is not Stachybotrys, often referred to as black mold,” according to the sheet. “Research conducted by ISDH Environmental Public Health Division did not find any reports of health risks from short or long term exposure to Baudoinia compniacensis. Although there are no known health hazards, if you choose to remove the fungus from surfaces, we recommend you use N95 masks, goggles, and gloves during removal.”
Matt Dogali, president and CEO of the American Distilled Spirits Alliance, said that the industry doesn’t consider the fungus to be a big problem.
“To me, the concern, as a health concern, is not valid. It’s not harmful to people, animals, flora or fauna,” he said. As far as the aesthetic concerns go, that’s “highly subjective.”
“The EPA has said ‘no, this isn’t hazardous or toxic,’” he said.
The alcohol vapor that attracts and feeds the fungus doesn’t spread very far from the rickhouses, Dogali said.
Technology utilized in California to capture and neutralize alcohol vapor can’t be used on whiskey, he said, because of the natural aging process required.
“From my perspective, 25 years ago Buffalo Trace had a handful of employees, many of whom were part time, and it wasn’t particularly well known across the U.S. Last year Buffalo Trace had over 300,000 visitors, the tourism dollars are through the roof, from a global perspective every state now knows the brand and Buffalo Trace now employs hundreds and hundreds of people,” Dogali said. “That’s a good problem to have.”
Other major Kentucky distillers either did not respond to requests for interviews or issued similar statements.
“Beam Suntory is proud to be recognized as a significant employer and pillar of the communities where our people live and work,” said the parent of both Jim Beam and Maker’s Mark in a statement. “As has been publicly reported, so-called warehouse blackening is nothing new, is not considered harmful, and naturally occurs around the world at locations both related and unrelated to distillation.”
LIkewise, Diageo, the parent of Bulleit bourbon and rye, sent a statement: “We believe that any blackening found on properties near our facilities is due to naturally occurring mold found widely throughout the environment, including in areas unrelated to the production of whiskey. We do not believe that our operations have caused any harm to property or pose any threat to health.”
Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association, said in a statement, “Members are leading the way in developing warehouse best practices as a model for distilleries around the country. The KDA’s Technical Advisory Group has worked with industry experts and engineers to study structural design elements and explore innovative solutions including advanced lightning protection and enhanced containment systems.”
Residents worry about long-term exposure to whiskey fungus
Many people just don’t want whiskey fungus on their property.
In Indiana, when distilling giant MGPI announced its intention to buy a facility in Sunman, the Indiana Division of Environmental Management responded to 130 individual written complaints opposing the move to convert it to whiskey aging warehouses. The deal went through anyway.
Back in Kentucky, Anderson County residents have dealt with whiskey fungus for decades. The county already has two bourbon distilleries outside Lawrenceburg: Four Roses, which ages its bourbon in Coxs Creek in Nelson County, and Wild Turkey, aging most of its whiskey in Anderson County.
Ernie Bostick has lived with his wife Donna, for 30 years within sight of the Wild Turkey Distillery. Donna has asthma and after years of scrubbing the fungus off their house over and over again, Ernie worries about what long-term exposure might be doing to her health.
“See that sign out there? Look how black it is,” Bostick said, pointing to a “Children at Play” road sign. “I don’t like breathing it. ... You know if it gets on your house, on everything around here, you’re breathing it too.”
This story was originally published August 18, 2022 at 10:00 AM.
