Looking for bold flavors? Try Mexican ice cream: Zingy Mangonadas, paletas and more

One of my earliest all-time favorite dining out in Lexington desserts was Chi-Chi’s Mexican fried ice cream. It was my first exposure to “Mexican ice cream.”

Later, I would discover that Mexican ice cream is actually far more than what Chi-Chi’s restaurant served up once upon a time.

Authentic Mexican ice cream is closer to gelato as it has less fat and air than its American counterpart. Its handmade quality and natural ingredients are what makes it so delightful, so flavorful.

Fany Gerson, author of the acclaimed cookbook, “Mexican Ice Cream: Beloved Recipes and Stories,” notes that in Mexico you will actually find more sorbets than ice cream. Her book is a terrific collection of more than “60 flavor-packed recipes for ice creams and frozen treats rooted in Mexico’s rich and revered ice cream traditions.”

She points out that ice cream in Mexico is more about the flavoring agents, such as Mexican cinnamon and fresh fruit, and less about mixed-in items like cookies, nuts, or candies.

Mexican ice cream is sometimes spicy and tangy.

Another popular tasty treat in Mexico are paletas — a frozen treat similar to American popsicles — made with agua (water) and fresh natural fruits such as mango or strawberry.

Alternatively, the fruit can be blended with whole milk or heavy cream to create paletas de leche (milk popsicles) or paletas de crema, and while paletas may resemble ordinary popsicles, this delectable dessert delivers a much bigger and more memorable flavor.

Recently I set out to discover which Lexington ice cream shops offer authentic paletas, spectacular scoops of exotic Mexican ice cream, and other noteworthy Mexican desserts and snacks.

Here are my findings, listed alphabetically:

El Lounge

1439 Alexandria Drive; 859-554-5662; Facebook: @elloungeky; Hours: Noon-9:30 p.m. -Saturday. Noon-10 p.m. Sunday.

Established in 2015, El Lounge features 20 fun flavors of ice cream including piña (pineapple), limon (lime), queso (think cheesecake), and tequila; 12 flavors of sorbet, and an assortment of Mexican dessert treats.

Montzerrat Centeno, owns and operates the popular West End ice cream shop on Alexandria Drive. She’s also attending the University of Kentucky and studying sociology.

El Lounge opened in 2014 as Latin Lex Lounge Community Center for children. Centeno launched the venture along with three friends. While admirably neighborhood focused, the owners soon discovered how difficult it is to make a profit operating a community center, so the decision was made to convert the center into an ice cream shop — which would also benefit the neighborhood and appeal to families and kids.

“We had to pay the rent,” notes Centeno.

“We wanted to offer something like the tastes of Mexico.”

The paletas are popular in winter while the sorbets sell more in summer. Rice pudding is the most popular paleta flavor.

The Mangonado — a refreshing mango-centric blend including chamoy sauce, lime juice and Tajin chili powder; sweet, tart, and savory and a summertime staple in Mexican communities — is the most popular menu item year-round. It is certainly a bold infusion of flavors. (Small: $4, medium: $6.50, or large: $8.50.)

Prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, samples were happily offered but are currently no longer available. Ice cream scoops are offered in small ($2.50), medium ($5), large ($7.25), extra-large ($9.25) or grandiosa ($12.25).

Business was steady on the late weekday afternoon I was there, including customers Attica Scott and her daughter Ashanti. Attica Scott is a Kentucky state representative who stopped on her way back home to Louisville.

Representative Scott is a big fan of El Lounge, even introducing her brother and friends to the store’s offering. Her go-to item is the Mangonada.

“I love it, especially its spiciness,” Scott said.

On this visit however, she decided to try something different — the Pepino Split ($7.50) — a cucumber, split and served similarly to a banana split, except with three flavors of sorbet rather than ice cream: cucumber, mango, and watermelon, and topped with chunks of mango and watermelon.

Daughter Ashanti, opted for the Fresas Con Crema — a traditional Mexican dessert made with strawberries and cream (small: $6.50 or grande: $8).

Other interesting menus item include the Esquite ($4.50) — Mexican street corn combined with epazote (Mexican herb), onion, chicken-flavored bouillon, Cotija cheese and lime juice; and the Bionico — essentially an ice cream-based fruit salad topped with apple slices, strawberries, bananas, grapes, granola, raisins, and condensed milk (small: $4.50, grande: $6, or supreme: $8).

When I asked her how if feels to be a successful female entrepreneur and inspiration to others, Centeno, summed it up humbly, “I don’t know if I am empowered woman. I am just trying to work through life with the support of friends and family and great customers.”

La Reina Michoacana

185 Pasadena Dr #150; 859-687-0038; Facebook: @lareinamichoacanalex and la-reina-michoacana.business.site; Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday: 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Wednesdays.

Located just off Nicholasville Road in the Pasadena Plaza, La Reina Michoacana is a mother/daughter-owned and operated ice cream shop established in 2018. La Reina Michocana translates to the queen of the state of Michoacán in western Mexico.

Mother Victoria Gallegos owned an ice cream shop in Mexico before moving to Colorado and then to Kentucky nine years ago.

Daughter Abby says the pair began selling the ice cream, made onsite, “to introduce the unique flavors (of Mexico) to everyone … in hopes people will love it as much as we do. Our flavors are as authentic as it is in Mexico.”

The shop features 12 enticing flavors of ice cream, more than 30 flavors of paletas, and mango sorbet. Each scoop of ice cream is $2.50. Flan and Mexican cheesecake are also on the menu ($4 ea.)

The Gansito flavor is the top selling ice cream, followed by coconut, and the hot chocolate flavor. A Gansito is a Mexican snack cake (think Twinkie), described as a strawberry-flavored jelly and crème-filled cake with a chocolate-flavored coating.

If you ever try the Gansito flavor, you will understand its popularity.

Another popular menu item is the Churro Sundae ($7), made with churros and a scoop of ice cream or sorbet of your choice. Churros — a popular street food in Mexican and Latin America communities — are long cylindrical pieces of fried dough, served warm, and coated with cinnamon and sugar.

There is also a coffee bar featuring the popular Horchata Ice Latte ($4.99)—made from rice, milk, vanilla, and cinnamon, and the Café de Olla, a Mexican coffee drink infused with cinnamon, sugar, and steamed milk, traditionally prepared in an earthen pot ($3.75). Cafe de Olla literally means “coffee from a pot.” Various licuadas (smoothies) and malteadas (milkshakes) are also available.

The menu offering at La Reina Michoacana includes breakfast burritos (choice of egg/chorizo or ham/eggs), along with tortas, assorted tacos, empanadas, and tamales. Many items can be ordered via DoorDash.

Panchitos Ice Cream

481 New Circle Road NW, #155; 859-433-9312; Facebook: facebook.com/panchitosicecreamlex/; Hours: Noon-10 p.m., 7 days a week.

Panchito is a nickname for Francisco, father of the Lexington Panchitos Ice Cream shop owner, Rogerio Fabian.

Fabian’s son, Jose, notes that Panchitos — the city’s oldest Mexican ice cream shop — now has locations in both Lexington and Louisville. Jose Fabian’s father opened the original and first Lexington location on Alexandria Drive in 2006. Jose and his wife later moved to Louisville to operate two other Panchitos stores.

“I believe the ingredients we use what makes the difference,” Jose said. “We make smaller batches and use fresh fruits and toppings. The fruits are fresh and only available from Mexico. You can’t easily find them at your local grocery store.”

“We offer more than 35 options of ice cream and about another 30 options of paletas.”

Tucked in between Araceli’s Panaderia (bakery) and El Malecon Mexican Seafood Restaurant & Bar in a small strip center located behind the Greyhound Bus Station on New Circle Road, Panchitos Ice Cream is not easy to find but worth the trip.

The Mangonada (small: $3.50; medium: $6; or large: $9) is the most popular menu item here also.

“When we moved to Lexington, we noticed there was not a similar concept,” Jose Fabian said. “So, we decided to start one. We are presently looking for a second location in Lexington and a third location in Louisville.”

He jokes that he hopes to someday become “the ice cream king of Kentucky.”

A scoop of ice cream at Panchitos is $3. Flavors include horchata, pine nut, gummy bear, Gansito, tequila, rum raisin, watermelon, mango, and many others. Several traditional American flavors are also available. Paletas are also $3.

Other standout menu items include the Vampiro — a mixture of fruit with chamoy, Tajín and a scoop of mango helado ($5.50); Chicharrón Preparado — a square deep-fried flour chip topped with cabbage, pico de gallo, cueritos, cotija cheese, and choice of sour cream or mayo ($5.50); and Cheetos Con Queso — Hot Cheetos with nacho cheese sauce and jalapeños ($3). Select menu items are available via DoorDash.

Upon my visit, I indulged myself with the massive Churro Sundae ($10) featuring two large churros, three heaping scoops of ice cream (my choice of piña colada, strawberries and cream, and Gansito — also known as “Mexican Twinkie”), topped with whipped cream, strawberries, granola or sprinkles, and drizzled with Hershey’s chocolate sauce. As much as I wanted to, I could not finish it — but it was delicious.

Super Mario Ice Cream

340 East New Circle Road, Suite 180; 859-382-9200; Facebook: @supermariosicecream; Hours: Noon-9 p.m., 7 days a week.

Super Mario Ice Cream traces its Lexington roots to 2011, when Mario Perez began offering ice cream out of a van in neighborhoods around Lexington. He opened the family-operated bricks and mortar location on New Circle Road in 2019 and continues to operate the ice cream van as well.

Perez recently purchased the equipment necessary to make the store’s ice cream offering onsite and plans to offer the fresh made ice cream.

Super Mario Ice Cream features 36 flavors of ice cream and sorbets, including Pepino con Chile (cucumber with chile), Tamarindo (tamarind), Guanabana (soursop), Guayaba (guava), Limon (lime), Queso (cheese), Chicle (bubble gum), Rompope (eggnog), Ron Con Pasas (rum with raisin), and Ferrero Rocher. Each scoops costs $2.25 plus tax.

As with other local Mexican ice cream shops, the Mangonada is the top-seller. Choco Bananas are also available at $1.50 each.

Don’t overlook the Dorilocos, prepared with cucumber, jicama, shredded carrots, chamoy sauce, Valentina Mexican hot sauce, pickled pork rind slices, Japanese-style peanuts and lime juice ($5.50, small; $8.50, large).

In warmer weather, Super Mario also offers homemade tortas, quesadillas, and tamales.

Rompope — a Latin American variation of eggnog, believed to have been invented by nuns in the convent of Santa Clara in Puebla, Mexico — is available by the bottle for $18.

Other options for Mexican ice cream in Lexington

▪ El Mango, 1414 Village Drive.

▪ Paquitos Ice Cream, 1388 Alexandria Drive #5.

If you love ice cream, sorbet, or popsicles, you owe it to yourself to visit one (or all) of the aforementioned Mexican ice cream store locations to experience the unusual and diverse menu items.

It is all about the ingredients and like traveling to Mexico without ever leaving Lexington.

A Guide to Mexican Ice Cream/Paleta Flavors

• Aguacate: avocado

• Almendra: almond

• Arroz Con Leche: ”rice with milk”

• Chamoy: sweet-spicy mixture of sweet fruit (like mango or plum) with chile

• Chicle: bubble gum

• Choco Chips: chocolate chip

• Choco Menta: mint chocolate chip

• Duraznos con Crema: peaches and cream

• Elote: corn

• Frambuesa: raspberry

• Fresa: strawberry

• Fresas Con Crema: strawberries and cream

• Guanabana: soursop

• Guayaba: guava

• Hierbabuena: mint

• Horchata: basically cinnamon rice milk

• Pera: pear

• Piña Colada: pineapple and coconut

• Plátano: banana

• Queso: cheese (think cheesecake)

• Rompope: eggnog

• Ron Con Pasas: rum raisin

• Sandia: watermelon

• Tamarindo: tamarind

• Té verde: green tea

• Vainilla: vanilla

• Yogurth: yogurt

Source: Delishably.com.

This story was originally published April 29, 2021 at 6:00 AM.